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Michigan startup reimagines clothing labels to boost recycling

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Michigan startup reimagines clothing labels to boost recycling



Fibarcode, a startup from the University of Michigan, is developing fabric-embedded barcodes that could make clothing and other textiles easier to recycle and more resistant to counterfeiting by encoding details about where, how, and from what materials they were made. The company will advance this technology toward commercial use with roughly $1.6 million in support from a National Science Foundation Small Business Technology Transfer Fast-Track grant.

Less than 15 per cent of the 92 million tonnes of clothing and other textiles discarded annually are recycled, in part because they are so difficult to sort. Ordinary tags or tagless labels often don’t make it to the end of a garment’s life—they may be cut away or wear off. And tags on some counterfeit items may not provide an accurate account of the fabrics used in a garment, nor their source. Recycling, repair operations and counterfeit prevention could be more effective if a difficult-to-fake tag was woven into the fabric, invisible until read.

Photonic fibres could enable this capability. Each fibre can be customised to absorb specific wavelengths of light, ranging from ultraviolet to infrared, by varying the amount and thickness of acrylic and polycarbonate layers inside. While the materials are clear on their own, they bend and refract light when combined; creating optical effects that can look like colour—similar to the wings of a butterfly, the University of Michigan said in a press release.

Fibarcode, a University of Michigan spinout, is developing photonic-fibre barcodes woven into fabrics to improve recycling and prevent counterfeiting.
Supported by a $1.6 million NSF grant, it is launching pilot programmes and seeking partners.
The patented technology, co-invented by Brian Iezzi, encodes material and supply-chain data directly into textiles.

Unique combinations of absorbed wavelengths act like codes. After the scanner reads the code, it can find and quickly display associated information to help verify the garment’s fabric content and designer labels, as well as thread and fabric suppliers. Multiple unique photonic fibres can also be combined to help expand the total possible number of unique codes.

The grant will enable Fibarcode to launch its first pilot programme and partner with industry stakeholders and recycling centres. The company is actively seeking additional collaborators to accelerate the adoption of its technology across the supply chain.

Fibarcode was founded in 2024 by Brian Iezzi, a U-M doctoral graduate of the department of materials science and engineering. He co-invented and developed the technology in the lab of Max Shtein, professor of materials science and engineering and chemical engineering, as part of an earlier NSF-sponsored research project.

They both received entrepreneurial education and mentoring from the National Science Foundation Innovation Corps Hub: Great Lakes region, which is led by U-M and helps researchers extend their focus beyond the laboratory to increase economic and societal impact.

With the help of U-M Innovation Partnerships, Shtein and Iezzi secured patent protection, and Iezzi launched Fibarcode. Fibarcode is headquartered in Tennessee, in a two-year accelerator programme run by Oak Ridge National Laboratory. Iezzi and the University of Michigan have a financial interest in Fibarcode.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)



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Burkina Faso fully nationalises leading cotton firm Sofitex

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Burkina Faso fully nationalises leading cotton firm Sofitex



Burkina Faso recently announced the full nationalisation of Burkinabe Company of Textile Fibres (Sofitex), the country’s leading cotton company, citing rising debt, declining production and inefficiencies.

The decision was taken during a meeting of the council of ministers that was chaired by the Transitional President Captain Ibrahim Traore.

Burkina Faso has announced the full nationalisation of Burkinabe Company of Textile Fibres (Sofitex), citing rising debt, declining production and inefficiencies.
Sofitex was a mixed-ownership firm, in which the state held a majority stake.
Full state ownership is expected to lead to tighter financial discipline, improved governance and a restructuring of operations to boost efficiency.

Sofitex was a mixed-ownership cotton company, in which the state held a controlling majority stake and private investors owned a minority share valued at about 75 billion CFA francs.

A 2025 valuation cited by the government places Sofitex’s total worth at 338.14 billion CFA francs (~$607 million), with the private stake valued at just over 75 billion CFA francs for 976,400 shares.

The company’s cotton production fell by 24-26 per cent to under 300,000 metric tonnes in the 2024-2025 season.

Full state ownership is expected to lead to tighter financial discipline, improved governance and a restructuring of operations to boost efficiency, according to a domestic media outlet.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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UK’ John Lewis appoints Jacqui Markham as new creative head of fashion

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UK’ John Lewis appoints Jacqui Markham as new creative head of fashion



John Lewis has appointed Jacqui Markham as its new Fashion Creative Director. She will lead the creative direction of John Lewis own-brand fashion across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear.

Markham joins from Whistles, where she served as Creative Director.  She was previously Global Design Director at Topshop and Design Director at ASOS. She succeeds Queralt Ferrer who steps down after four years with the Partnership.

John Lewis has appointed Jacqui Markham as fashion creative director, overseeing own-brand womenswear, menswear and childrenswear.
She joins from Whistles and succeeds Queralt Ferrer.
The move strengthens investment in design, quality and relevance, alongside digital growth, Oxford Street refurbishments, exclusive collaborations and an expanded line-up of global fashion brands.

The appointment marks the next phase in John Lewis developing its own brand fashion, with clear creative direction and continued investment behind it.

Markham brings a strong track record of building distinctive, successful collections with a focus on design, quality and relevance for customers.

Her appointment comes alongside John Lewis’s continued investment in fashion, including upgrades to shops and digital, and the recent refurbishment of womenswear and menswear at the Oxford Street flagship store.

This month also sees the launch of the second John Lewis x Rejina Pyo collaboration, and a new 15-piece exclusive capsule collection from Amanda Wakeley.  These will complement the expanded line-up of new brands including Samsoe Samsoe, MOTHER, St Agni, Patagonia, Belstaff, Missoma and Completedworks.

Rachel Morgans, John Lewis Director of Fashion, said: “I look forward to welcoming Jacqui to John Lewis at a defining moment for our fashion business. She brings a wealth of expertise and a proven ability to create exceptional design and will support our future creative vision.”

Jacqui Markham commented: “I am very excited to join the Partnership and to work together with all the teams toward a shared vision for the future of John Lewis. It feels like a seminal moment in the long history of the Partnership, and I cannot wait to get started to help shape that vision and bring our collective ideas to light.”

Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.

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Bangladesh RMG units call for allowing local FOC raw material sourcing

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Bangladesh RMG units call for allowing local FOC raw material sourcing



Bangladesh readymade garment (RMG) manufacturers recently requested the government to remove restrictions on sourcing raw materials free of cost (FOC) from local suppliers.

While exporters are now allowed to import raw materials from abroad on an FOC basis under a recent policy change, such a provision does not exist for sourcing the same materials locally, industry leaders said.

Bangladesh RMG players have urged the government to remove restrictions on sourcing raw materials free of cost (FOC) from local suppliers.
Industry leaders said allowing FOC sourcing from domestic suppliers would boost local sales, strengthen backward linkage industries and raise overall value addition in the export-oriented sector.
Many local suppliers can provide inputs now against global orders.

They feel allowing FOC sourcing from domestic suppliers would boost local sales, strengthen backward linkage industries and raise overall value addition in the export-oriented RMG sector.

In a letter sent recently to the National Board of Revenue (NBR), the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) called for removing policy barriers and providing clarity on the issue, according to a domestic media outlet.

Many local suppliers are now capable of providing inputs against international buyers’ orders. In some cases, foreign buyers or their nominated agents are willing to supply materials free of cost through local vendors for use in export production.

However, the absence of clear policy guidelines on whether such transactions qualify as ‘deemed exports’ has created uncertainty, preventing manufacturers from using locally sourced FOC inputs.

Allowing exporters to use locally-sourced inputs under a cutting, making and trimming (CMT) model would further streamline production, BKMEA said.

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