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Pierpaolo Piccioli debuts at Balenciaga, with Meghan and Lauren applauding

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Pierpaolo Piccioli debuts at Balenciaga, with Meghan and Lauren applauding


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October 5, 2025

Saturday night in Paris witnessed the debut of Pierpaolo Piccioli at one of fashion’s most mythical marques, Balenciaga. With Meghan Markle and Lauren Sanchez applauding front row, this was surely the most sophisticated new designer inauguration so far.

Balenciaga – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A collection that was all about the body and its rapport with clothing, in a beautiful, often whispery light, debut by Pierpaolo Piccioli for the legendary house of Balenciaga on a dank night in the French capital.
 
Piccioli clearly regards founder Cristóbal Balenciaga with awe, as a great artist who revolutionized fashion, and fabrics. Pre-show, his mood board featured images of Le Corbusier’s Colline Notre Dame du Haut church and Da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man“, suggesting the forms that PPP would develop.

A first collection presented inside a church in a perfect cruciform within a former convent, which should have pleased founder Cristóbal Balenciaga, a regular Sunday mass church goer.

Balenciaga – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

 
The key material in this insurrection was gazar, a fabric technique that lightens and adds structure to any look. Piccioli was rightly obsessed with really digging deep into the DNA of the brand and its archive. So, he had the house manufacture special light protective body stockings live models could wear inside historic archive looks without doing any damage.
 
“Unless you actually see Cristóbal’s clothes move and turn on a live human body, I don’t think you fully comprehend them,” insisted Piccioli.
 
The result was a collection of rare elegance. Opening with faintly billowing columns, tunics and pants in organza gazar that ripped as the models walked by. But adding a dash of rock goddess chic with cocoon leather biker jackets, and a superb leather combo of truncated leather top and multifold skirt that billowed out.
 
Cristóbal was famed for using juxtaposed materials, something Pierpaolo played on in ivory sheaths trimmed with small fields of sliced white cock feathers. 

Balenciaga – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Pre-show, the Rome-born couturier explained that he wanted to add air to his curving shapes, whether made in cotton and wool gazar, or second skin leather. He very much succeeded in the subtlest debut of the dozen so far on the four-week international calendar that ends on Tuesday.
 
Plus, he paired a new soft Bolero bag that one could fold and hold under arm.
 
Pierpaolo joined Balenciaga – a key house in French luxury group Kering – after an 18-month hiatus after leaving Valentino. He succeeded Demna, the Georgian-born designer who left to join Gucci, the largest marque in Kering.
 
Their visions for Balenciaga are very far apart. Demna, a refugee civil war in his native land, who had a dark dystopian vision of fashion, and life. 

Balenciaga – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

One of Demna’s most famous shows was set in a muddy battlefield with models dressed like battered refugees. Piccioli, by contrast, loves bright, vibrant colors. His color palette referenced the glorious colors of painters like Fontana, Rothko and Goya.
 
While his heroines were far more kicky and independent than the founder or Demna, opening the show with a remix of Sinead O’Conor singing “In This Heart”.
 
“Adding air to shapes. Making clothes that are ordinary yet extraordinary,” said Pierpaolo, explaining his goal. Staging a show of great grace, and aplomb and polish in a dark moment geopolitically and socially for the planet.
 
“In my view, putting your faith in humanity is the most radical act one can see today,” concluded Piccioli, who took an extended beaming bow amid a prolonged standing ovation.
 

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Swinger to make 70 staff redundant, loss of Versace orders proves decisive

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Swinger to make 70 staff redundant, loss of Versace orders proves decisive


Translated by

Nicola Mira

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December 9, 2025

There may be trouble ahead for Swinger International. The Bussolengo-based company in the Italian province of Verona, which has been producing jeans (and, for some time now, ready-to-wear) for many major fashion houses since the early 1970s, is about to make almost half of its employees redundant.

Versace Jeans Couture (by Swinger International), S/S 2025

It will be a particularly bitter Christmas for the employees of the Veneto-based company which, only two weeks after signing an agreement on extraordinary furlough for eight months covering its entire workforce, on November 25 opened collective redundancy proceedings for 70 of its current 148 employees, as reported in the Economy section of the local daily L’Arena.

Swinger International’s situation has deteriorated in just a few months following, according to union sources, the loss of orders from Versace, a brand officially acquired last week by Prada, which on its own generated about 80% of the company’s turnover (Swinger produced the Versace Jeans Couture line, ed).

On the subject, Prada told FashionNetwork.com that Versace had decided to terminate its licensing relationship with Swinger as early as October 2024, when the brand decided to shut down its second line, Versace Jeans Couture, thus before the start of negotiations between Capri Holdings and the Prada Group for the acquisition of the brand.

Prada also clarified that the decision is not related to any offshoring, as claimed by some sources, but to the choice, dating back to last year, to close the Versace Jeans Couture line.

For its part, Swinger International, contacted by FashionNetwork.com, declined to comment for the time being, while indicating that the company’s owners will communicate their response to this serious situation in the coming days.

It is a real shame for a company founded in the 1970s with a small artisanal production of jeans and then apparel, which over the decades grew to secure licences from international brands (such as Roberto Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood, Missoni, and Fendi), especially in the youth fashion and ready-to-wear segments, and which managed to increase revenues from almost 100 million euros in 2020 to more than 175 million in 2023. In 2011, Swinger International acquired the Genny brand, still in its portfolio, appointing Sara Cavazza Facchini as creative director.

On Tuesday, December 9, the first trade union consultation meeting to handle the redundancies was held at the Confindustria Verona headquarters. Regulations provide for a 45-day period in which the company and workers’ representatives can reach an agreement, and a further 30 days during which the Veneto Region is expected to act as mediator, the Verona daily added, noting that negotiations have so far proved unsuccessful.

The Filctem CGIL union did not sign the agreement. Its representatives say that “their requests, which included, among other things, the inclusion of a safeguard clause regarding the effective date of the redundancies, were not accepted,” reports L’Arena. In their view, moreover, “the conditions imposed by the company are absolutely unacceptable, starting with a wholly inadequate voluntary redundancy incentive.” The union has therefore announced that it will individually assist workers who authorise it to do so.

The current difficulties reportedly began to emerge in May, when Swinger International applied for furlough for 171 employees due to a slowdown in production, but matters accelerated at the end of the summer, when 23 members of the company’s workforce had already resigned.

This article is an automatic translation.
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Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Middle East IPO boom fades amid competition from global markets

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Middle East IPO boom fades amid competition from global markets


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Bloomberg

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December 9, 2025

After four blockbuster years, the Middle East’s initial public offering boom is losing steam as valuations come under scrutiny and listings roar back in the US and Asia. In recent months, the Gulf’s listing volumes have fallen to their lowest since the pandemic, investors have become markedly more selective, and the region’s once-reliable first-day pop has faded. 

Lulu Group is based in the UAE and counts numerous malls in India – Kozhikode District- Facebook

The change in sentiment was on show this week as Saudi Arabia’s EFSIM Facilities Management canceled plans for an up to $89 million listing on the kingdom’s main exchange. Saudi Arabia’s sovereign wealth fund has also slowed work on several planned first-time share sales, Bloomberg News has reported. Those moves come as the benchmark Tadawul index has dropped nearly 12% this year. 

The Gulf had been a rare bright spot in recent years, buoyed by government privatisations and a push to deepen local capital markets. But lower oil prices have started to cloud the Middle East’s growth outlook, particularly in Saudi Arabia. Meanwhile, as IPO activity fired back up elsewhere, a region that thrived in a global listings drought suddenly faced competition. 

The most striking shift this year was the sharp drop in IPO volumes across the Gulf, with regional listing proceeds more than halving from $13 billion to under $6 billion in 2025. In the UAE, listings slowed dramatically after the soft debuts of Lulu Retail Holdings PLC and Talabat Holding PLC late last year left investors more cautious. Dubai-based online classifieds platform Dubizzle Ltd. postponed its first-time share sale, a rare example of a pulled deal in the country. Oman, which had briefly outpaced London in IPO volumes in 2024, also saw activity dry up. 

In Saudi Arabia, the EFSIM deal was pulled in part due to generally weaker market demand, people familiar with the matter said. Still, the kingdom’s IPO proceeds held steady compared to last year at roughly $4 billion, helping the kingdom reclaim its title as the Gulf’s busiest listing venue. But most deals came from the private sector as the government eased off on large privatisations.  

“Government IPOs are large tickets, this year the market was not for this,” said Mostafa Gad, head of investment banking at EFG Hermes, one of the leading arranger of share sales in the Gulf. “Postponing the big ones was a very wise idea.”

The shift in sentiment was evident in deal size as well. Last year produced three IPOs nearing $2 billion after strong orderbooks allowed Talabat and Lulu to upsize their offerings late in the process, even though that enthusiasm didn’t carry into trading. In 2025, there was just one billion-dollar deal from low-cost carrier Flynas, and only four transactions topped $500 million.

Investors pushed toward smaller, simpler stories with clearer financials, “Anything above $500 million starts to get difficult,” said Gad, “People are not willing to navigate through a lot of complexity.”

If UAE IPOs slowed, follow-ons filled the gap. Secondary share sales in the emirates climbed toward $5 billion, overtaking IPO proceeds for the first time. Much of that activity came from Abu Dhabi government-backed shareholders trimming stakes to boost free floats, liquidity and index weightings.

Even Qatar, which has largely missed the Gulf-wide share sale boom, saw rare activity: Ooredoo’s multi-million-dollar stake sale by Abu Dhabi Investment Authority became the country’s most significant ECM event in years. Saudi follow-on volumes were more muted than last year, which was dominated by the government’s $12 billion sell-down in oil major Aramco.

Another defining shift came in performance. The 30% plus first-day jumps that had become a feature of Gulf listings started to crack in late 2024 and evaporated in 2025. In Saudi Arabia, the average listing gain turned negative, and only two of the kingdom’s ten largest IPOs now trade above offer. Broader market weakness didn’t help – Saudi equities were among the worst performers in emerging markets this year, dragged down by softer oil prices and concerns that this could dampen government spending. 

Demand has also suffered in recent listings. Riyadh developer Al Ramz’s institutional investor books were only 11 times covered earlier this month, a far cry from the triple-digit oversubscription levels that were the norm months ago.

IPOs in the UAE fared better, but signs of fatigue appeared there too. Even contractor Alec Holdings PJSC – state-backed and the kind of deal that historically delivered a strong debut – traded tepidly on day one and is up a modest 3%. Dubai and Abu Dhabi’s main stock indices overall performed relatively well, but instant double-digit listing gains were no longer a given.

For some, that’s a welcome correction. “Everyone will adjust to the idea that not all IPOs will perform 30–40% on day one,” Gad said. “We’re becoming a mature market.”



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Japan factory downturn eases as PMI inches up to 48.7 in November: S&P

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Japan factory downturn eases as PMI inches up to 48.7 in November: S&P



Japan’s manufacturing sector headline PMI rose slightly to 48.7 in November from October’s 48.2, marking a fifth consecutive month of contraction, though the downturn was the mildest since August, according to the latest S&P Global survey. It remained under pressure as weak demand continued to curb new orders.

Manufacturers reported softer declines in output, with some firms increasing production in anticipation of stronger future demand. Consumer goods producers saw a marginal improvement, while operating conditions remained weak in intermediate and investment goods categories.

Japan’s manufacturing PMI edged up to 48.7 in November from 48.2, marking a fifth month of contraction but the mildest decline since August.
Weak demand and falling new orders persisted, though output softened and employment rose slightly.
Input costs increased at the fastest pace since June, prompting higher selling prices.
Business confidence reached a 10-month high as firms anticipated recovery.

New business continued to fall solidly amid sluggish global conditions, tighter customer budgets, and reduced capital investment. Export orders also declined, albeit at a modest pace, S&P Global said in a press release.

Cost pressures intensified, with input prices rising at the fastest rate since June, driven by increased staffing and raw material expenses. Firms raised selling prices again at a solid pace to offset cost burdens.

Purchasing activity and inventories fell further as companies adjusted to subdued demand. Stocks of purchased items declined at the steepest rate in five years, while delivery times lengthened for a fifteenth straight month due to supplier shortages.

Employment saw a slight uptick—the fastest increase in three months—as firms filled vacancies and prepared for planned expansions and upcoming retirements. Backlogs of work continued to decline for the 38th consecutive month.

Despite persistent weakness in current conditions, business confidence improved to a ten-month high, reflecting expectations of gradual recovery ahead.

“The latest PMI data showed that Japan’s manufacturing sector continued to struggle with weak demand conditions in November, with firms signalling another solid decline in overall new business. Reduced demand was reported across key markets across Asia, with weaker-than-expected sales across the automotive and semiconductor industries noted in particular,” said Annabel Fiddes, economics associate director at S&P Global Market Intelligence.

“Encouragingly, production fell at a slower and only marginal rate, which coincided with improved optimism around the year-ahead. Overall, business confidence rose to the highest level since the start of the year. Upbeat projections also supported a further rise in employment, as a number of firms anticipated a recovery in market demand over the course of 2026,” added Fiddes. “With Japan’s new prime minister recently announcing a substantial economic stimulus package – the biggest since the pandemic – it will be important to see how this impacts demand and the sector’s performance as the administration seeks to boost investment in key strategic areas such as AI.”

The survey indicated that Japanese factories were more upbeat about the 12-month outlook for output in November. Furthermore, the degree of optimism was the highest seen since January amid reports of new product launches and forecasts of stronger customer demand, added the release.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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