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Pitti Uomo double bill: Hed Mayner and Shinya Kozuko

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Pitti Uomo double bill: Hed Mayner and Shinya Kozuko


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January 15, 2026

Pitti Uomo 109 staged a double bill of designer runway shows on Wednesday: Hed Mayner with some very fine conceptual and exploratory tailoring, and Shinya Kozuka, with a glove-inspired avant-garde display.
 

Hed Mayner: Tel Aviv tailoring

Mayner, an Israeli-born designer who for the past couple of years has divided his time between Tel Aviv and Bergamo, presented an impressive collection of enveloping clothes and twisted silhouettes that broke plenty of fresh sartorial ground.

Hed Mayner fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwork.com

Hed cuts clothes away from the torso and body, so they hang with a certain unexpected authority. Take his nipped-at-the-waist matinee idol coats that are finished with oversize sleeves worthy of a highwayman. Or consider his marvelous jackets, with sleeves that curve away, and shoulders that taper ahead. And you could not help admiring the cloak-meets-houndstooth topcoat combinations; or the superb flowing trench coat that Hed paired with silver sequin sweatpants and shirt.
 
“I wanted to create a sort of parallel universe, where the clothes work alongside the body, rather than over it,” explained Mayner, in a pre-show briefing.

With his high forehead and vertically ascending mop of hair, it would be easy to mistake Hed Mayner for a physicist. His clothes do reek of experimentation. Though he is certainly no mad scientist – as his experiments generally work, and often with great drama.

Hed Mayner fall/winter 2026 collection
Hed Mayner fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwork.com

Hed showed 10 female looks and 25 looks for guys in this show, and the gals had a brainy, yet tough air about them too. Like the very snazzy pinstripe skirt suit or the brilliantly curvaceous worn. Leather biker jacket, whose shoulders ended halfway down the biceps. All told, this was a master class in bravura tailoring, that still managed to have plenty of commercial credibility.
 
Ever since his debut show in Paris in 2017, Mayner has been a consistently interesting designer, of considerable talent. And even if the odd look in this show was frankly absurd, like his pleated suede cone-shaped dresses, that only added to the sense of occasion.
 
All staged inside the Palazzina Reale di Santa Maria della Novella – a distinguished example of 1930s Rationalist architecture, finished with trompe l’oeil frescoes made to look like tapestries recounting Roman and Florentine history.
 
Making for a memorable fashion statement, by an Israeli designer who fully exploited the opportunity and honor of showing in Pitti, the world’s best organized fashion salon and trade fair, bar none.
 

Shinya Kozuka: Weird in a warehouse

The opening of Wednesday’s two shows in Pitti was by Shinya Kozuka, marking the Japanese designer’s international catwalk debut.

Shinya Kozuka fall/winter 2026
Shinya Kozuka fall/winter 2026 – FashionNetwork.com

 
The invitation was a white cotton glove, and the inspiration was Japanese photographer Koji Ishii’s well-documented habit of taking photos of lost gloves found on the street.
 
But if the well-spring of the collection was intriguing, the clothes often felt contrived and convoluted.
 
In his defense, Kozuka is clearly a clever print maker. His assemblages of wild deer, moose, wild crows and campaniles seen in scarves or soft cotton shirts looked great. But a series of ragged, baggy denim shorts; lump snow-pint tops and bulky coats failed to impress. 
 

Shinya Kozuka fall/winter 2026 collection
Shinya Kozuka fall/winter 2026 collection – FashionNetwork.com

A collection presented inside the Magazzino, meaning warehouse, of the Fortezza da Basso – the giant medieval fortress that is the nerve center of Pitti – the show-space space was decorated in a fake snowscape. 
 
Kozuka didn’t take any bow at the finale. And the applause was the weakest we have ever heard in over 100 runways shows in Pitti.
 

Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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US’ Kontoor Brands appoints Erinn Murphy to lead finance role

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US’ Kontoor Brands appoints Erinn Murphy to lead finance role



Kontoor Brands, Inc. (NYSE: KTB), announced that Erinn Murphy will join Kontoor Brands as Vice President, Global Head of Finance and Operations, Helly Hansen and Corporate Investor Relations in early May. Murphy will take an international assignment in Oslo, Norway as a member of the Helly Hansen leadership team as well as oversee corporate investor relations.

“We are thrilled to welcome Erinn Murphy to Kontoor Brands,” said executive vice president, chief financial officer & global head of operations, Joe Alkire. “Having led investor relations and corporate strategy from within a high-growth consumer brand and nearly twenty years of experience covering global lifestyle brands as a respected senior equity analyst, she understands what drives long-term value creation from every angle. Her perspective will expand the operational and strategic depth of the Helly Hansen leadership team as we focus on accelerating growth and expanding the brand’s global reach, while also strengthening how Kontoor engages with the investment community.”

Kontoor Brands has named Erinn Murphy VP, global head of finance & operations for Helly Hansen and Corporate Investor Relations, starting May in Oslo.
She joins from Crocs, Inc., bringing nearly two decades of experience across investor relations, strategy and equity research.
Michael Karapetian will expand his role and return in Q3 2026 to support transition and investor engagement.

Murphy joins Kontoor from Crocs, Inc., a global leader in innovative casual footwear, where she served as Senior Vice President, Investor Relations and Corporate Strategy. Prior to that, she served as Managing Director of Consumer Equity Capital Markets for leading investment bank, Piper Sandler. She was recently appointed as a member of the board of directors for Revolve Group, Inc. (NYSE: RVLV).

Murphy’s appointment coincides with an expanded role for Michael Karapetian, who will serve as Vice President, Global Brand & Operations Finance and Corporate Investor Relations, with responsibility for all aspects of global brand and supply chain finance and corporate investor relations. Karapetian will return from his international assignment at Helly Hansen in the third quarter of 2026 to allow for a transition period.

Note: The headline, insights, and image of this press release may have been refined by the Fibre2Fashion staff; the rest of the content remains unchanged.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)



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France’s Kering begins 2026 on stable footing, eyes Gucci revival

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France’s Kering begins 2026 on stable footing, eyes Gucci revival



French luxury house Kering has begun 2026 with signs of stabilisation, as early results from its strategic reset began to take effect despite a challenging global backdrop. Meanwhile, the group continued to prioritise the turnaround of Gucci through product, distribution and client-focused initiatives.

The group reported first-quarter (Q1) 2026 revenue of €3,568 million (~$4,210.24 million), down 6 per cent year-over-year (YoY) on a reported basis but stable on a comparable basis, signalling early signs of recovery despite geopolitical pressures.

Kering’s Q1 2026 revenue reached €3,568 million (~$4,210.24 million), down 6 per cent YoY but stable comparably, signalling early recovery.
Retail fell 2 per cent, while wholesale rose 6 per cent.
Fashion & Leather Goods sales went down 9 per cent.
Gucci declined 14 per cent to €1,347 million (~$1,589.46 million).
Middle East retail dropped 11 per cent, contributing 5 per cent of sales.

“In the first quarter of 2026, group revenue stabilised, marking an important first step in our recovery and a further sequential improvement. This performance reflects the first tangible effects of our actions, despite a challenging geopolitical environment,” said Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering.

Retail sales, including e-commerce, declined 2 per cent on a comparable basis, reflecting uneven regional demand. Wholesale revenue rose 6 per cent, Kering said in a press release.

Kering’s Fashion & Leather Goods posted a revenue of €2,852 million, down 9 per cent reported and 3 per cent comparable. Direct retail sales fell 4 per cent. Growth was driven by Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga and Brioni, particularly in North America.

Saint Laurent saw strong traction in shoes and ready-to-wear, while Bottega Veneta performed well in Asia-Pacific. Balenciaga continued to benefit from leather goods demand, and Brioni maintained positive momentum. Wholesale revenue for the segment increased 2 per cent.

Gucci posted €1,347 million (~$1,589.46 million) in revenue, down 14 per cent reported and 8 per cent comparable. Retail sales declined 9 per cent. North America grew 8 per cent, but this was offset by declines in Asia-Pacific and Western Europe.

“Gucci remains our top priority. A comprehensive turnaround is underway, with decisive actions across client, distribution and, above all, the offer,” added de Meo. “We have reset the product architecture and strengthened category focus, with new collections rolling out progressively in stores throughout the year.”

Regionally, the Middle East remains a key area of focus, contributing around 5 per cent of retail revenue. The Group operates 79 stores and employs approximately 1,100 people in the region. Retail revenue there declined 11 per cent in Q1 following earlier growth, amid geopolitical tensions. However, all stores are currently operational.

Kering continued to strengthen its operational structure and growth platforms during the quarter.

“The first quarter of 2026 marked continued progress, as we executed with pace and focus. We have launched a Group platform designed to support the growth of our Houses and enhance efficiency,” said de Meo.

Kering remains focused on restoring growth and improving margins in 2026 through disciplined execution and strategic repositioning.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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ICE cotton rallies to 22 month-high on weaker dollar, drought worries

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ICE cotton rallies to 22 month-high on weaker dollar, drought worries



ICE cotton futures rallied to a more than 22-month high, supported by a combination of a weaker US dollar, firm crude oil prices, and ongoing dry weather concerns in key US growing regions.

The May 2026 contract settled at 75.11 cents per pound, up 0.77 cent or 1 per cent. The most traded contract of July 2026 rallied 0.90 cent or 1.20 per cent to settle at 77.42 cents per pound. It had touched an intraday high of 77.75 cents, marking its highest level since July 2024. Other contracts also rose to reach a high level.

ICE cotton surged to a 22-month high, led by a weaker US dollar, firm crude oil and drought concerns in key US regions.
The July 2026 contract hit its highest since July 2024.
Strong trading volumes and rising synthetic fibre costs supported demand, while weather risks and macro factors kept market sentiment firmly bullish.
Deliverable stocks remained unchanged, signalling tight supply conditions.

Total trading volume was recorded at 98,489 contracts, reflecting strong participation and sustained buying interest.

Crude oil prices remained firm as supply disruption concerns persisted due to ongoing geopolitical tensions involving Iran. Markets reacted to mixed signals after statements indicating a possible end to the US-Iran conflict, but uncertainty kept oil prices supported. The conflict has effectively disrupted flows through the Strait of Hormuz, which handles nearly 20 per cent of global oil and gas shipments along with key commodities like fertilisers. Elevated crude oil prices are increasing polyester fibre production costs, thereby supporting cotton demand as a substitute fibre.

The US dollar index edged lower and traded in a narrow range as investors assessed the likelihood of renewed US-Iran negotiations. A weaker dollar made US cotton more competitive in global markets, providing additional support to export demand.

According to market analysts, high crude oil prices and rising synthetic fibre costs are key drivers supporting the cotton market, along with the impact of a weaker dollar.

The ongoing drought conditions in the United States also continued to pose risks to crop development unless weather conditions improve. Weather conditions in major US cotton-producing regions remain dry, reinforcing concerns over crop health, yield potential, and overall supply outlook.

ICE data showed that deliverable No. 2 cotton futures stocks remained unchanged at 159,512 bales as of April 14.

Broader financial markets showed strength, with the S&P 500 and Nasdaq closing at record highs driven by strong corporate earnings and optimism around geopolitical developments. CBOT wheat futures rose for the third consecutive session and have gained nearly 4 per cent so far this week due to drought conditions in the US Plains impacting crop prospects.

Cotton futures remain in a strong bullish phase with prices at multi-month highs, supported by macroeconomic factors such as a weaker dollar and firm crude oil, along with fundamental support from adverse US weather conditions. Market sentiment continues to favour further upside in the near term.

This morning (Indian Standard Time), ICE cotton for May 2026 was trading at 75.98 cents per pound (up 0.87 cent), cash cotton at 73.11 cents (up 0.77 cent), the July 2026 contract at 78.32 cents (up 0.90 cent), the October 2026 contract at 78.94 cents (up 1.37 cent), the December 2026 contract at 79.10 cents (up 0.75 cent) and the March 2027 contract at 79.85 cents (up 0.66 cent). A few contracts remained at their previous closing levels, with no trading recorded so far today.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)



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