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Recovering John Lewis may open new department stores, ramps up fashion offer

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Recovering John Lewis may open new department stores, ramps up fashion offer


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November 26, 2025

It’s not so long ago that John Lewis was closing some of its department stores and battling a sales slump that tipped it into loss-making territory. But with its recovery now under way, the MD of John Lewis Partnership’s (JLP) department stores unit has said that the company may open new branches as well as adding new fashion brands.

Topshop is one of the new brands helping John Lewis make a bigger fashion impact – Topshop

Peter Ruis said in an interview that there are “definitely no plans to close ” stores and that openings are “definitely something we are looking at” with hints of moves into areas of the UK where it’s not previously had a presence. That said, there are no plans for any openings at present.

Underlining the relative confidence of physical store retailers, despite the tough backdrop, he told The Guardian: “The store is a perfect invention, and we’ve seen only too well, coming back from Covid, how people have gravitated back to the stores.”

The company will clearly think carefully about new spaces in the future though, especially after expensive mistakes in the past. The Birmingham Grand Central store, for instance, opened in 2015 and enjoyed a £35 million investment, but was closed during lockdowns then shuttered permanently post-pandemic. John Lewis’s most recent opening was Cheltenham, Gloucestershire,  in 2018.

Having closed 16 sites in total in an effort to get back on track, the former growth superstar is now profitable again. It also has executives with strong retail experience at the helm following criticism of it during a period when its top team had little direct knowledge of store retailing.

Store investment

John Lewis had committed £800 million by 2029 to upgrading its existing stores and that included a big revamp at its Oxford Street, London flagship that was complete last year. Unlike the original plan to devote a lot of the space to offices, the company chose to retain the six floors as sales bounced back. And with former John Lewis fashion boss Ruis returning to the company last year to lead the turnaround, the retailer now feels like a business on the rise.

Ruis said the stores had to be modernised and the company is “getting rid of the old stuffy department store and replacing it with something more experiential”.

That includes the addition of new brands, the deal with Topshop being the highest-profile of these. But collabs with names such as Labrum London and Rejina Pyo have also been important, as have initiatives such as Beauty Hall makeovers, a new Gifting Emporium at Bluewater and a VIP members’ lounge at Oxford Street.

Ruis explained that his task is to bring “radical relevance” to the store estate and the changes at the business are clealry beign seen in womenswear in particular. 

He said there will be “some big, announcements coming” on new brands next year. “The brands are queueing up to come into us, whereas… a few years ago, we were probably trying to convince them. They see all of this change, all this excitement and suddenly the relevance of what we can offer them,” he added.

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Switzerland’s Calida narrows sales decline, lifts profit in 2025

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Switzerland’s Calida narrows sales decline, lifts profit in 2025



Swiss premium bodywear group Calida Group has reported improved profitability and a strengthened financial position in 2025, posting net sales from continuing operations of CHF 215.9 million (~$278.5 million), down 5 per cent year on year (YoY) on a currency-adjusted basis, with the rate of decline easing in the second half of the year. Core brands Calida and Aubade demonstrated positive operational progress supported by premium positioning and disciplined execution of the group’s Operational Excellence strategy.

The group recorded an operating result (EBIT) of CHF 9 million (~$11.6 million) compared with CHF 4 million in the previous year, lifting the EBIT margin to 4.2 per cent from 1.7 per cent. Excluding Cosabella, the combined EBIT margin of Calida and Aubade reached 6.7 per cent, approaching the company’s medium-term target range. Operating net profit improved significantly to CHF 7.6 million (~$9.8 million) from CHF 0.5 million a year earlier, Calida Group said in a press release.

Calida Group has reported net sales of CHF 215.9 million (~$278.5 million) in 2025, down 5 per cent YoY.
EBIT rose to CHF 9 million (~$11.6 million) and net profit to CHF 7.6 million (~$9.8 million), supported by strong Calida and Aubade performance.
The group maintained solid liquidity and continued Cosabella repositioning while targeting future profitability improvement.

The group maintained a solid financial base with net liquidity of CHF 25.1 million and an adjusted equity ratio of 67.9 per cent, while free cash flow reached CHF 9.8 million. The board proposed a cash dividend of CHF 0.25 per share, corresponding to a payout ratio of 23 per cent in line with its long-term dividend policy.

“After a challenging first half of 2025, the Calida Group developed positively in the second half and achieved operational improvements on sales and profitability. By deliberately and systematically forgoing discount-driven growth and strategically positioning Calida and Aubade in the premium segment, the brands were strengthened in the long-term. Overall, 2025 was another year defined by a persistently challenging market environment,” said Thomas Stocklin, CEO of the Calida Group.

“Geopolitical uncertainty, US trade and tariff policies, and muted consumer sentiment in our core markets impacted the entire industry. In this environment, the Calida Group has demonstrated strategic discipline and, step by step, is evolving in the desired direction. Today, our group is more agile and efficient. Combined with our financial strength, this positions the Calida Group to pursue well-considered organic as well as external growth opportunities, allowing us to look to the future with confidence,” added Stocklin.

Operationally, the company continued implementing its efficiency-focused strategy by reintegrating functions into individual brands, streamlining group management structures and strengthening capabilities across product management, marketing, operations and sales.

Brand-wise, Calida generated sales of CHF 145.1 million, declining modestly as store traffic softened, although e-commerce growth and a strong Christmas season supported second-half performance. The brand improved its operating contribution margin through higher gross margins and ongoing cost optimisation while reinforcing its premium market positioning.

Aubade recorded sales of CHF 58 million amid weak consumer sentiment in France and the strategic withdrawal from unprofitable channels following the pandemic-driven demand surge. Nevertheless, margin performance strengthened through strict cost management, ongoing rebranding initiatives and progress in expanding export markets, particularly in the United States.

Cosabella reported sales of CHF 12.8 million, extending its negative growth trajectory and contributing higher losses as the brand remains in an intensive repositioning phase under strategic review. The group is targeting a turnaround towards operational break-even in 2026.

Overall, the group indicated that organisational restructuring, inventory optimisation and disciplined channel management enhanced agility and cost efficiency, positioning the company for future growth while aiming to improve group profitability further as Cosabella’s performance stabilises.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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Iran conflict and apparel sourcing: Nearshoring on the rise

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US’ Wolverine Worldwide 2025 revenue rises 6.8% on Active Group growth

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US’ Wolverine Worldwide 2025 revenue rises 6.8% on Active Group growth



American footwear manufacturer Wolverine Worldwide, Inc has reported full-year 2025 revenue of $1.874 billion for the period ended January 3, 2026, an increase of 6.8 per cent year-over-year (YoY), with ongoing business revenue up 7.1 per cent. Active Group sales advanced 13 per cent to $1.408 billion, while Work Group decreased 7.3 per cent to $422.2 million. Saucony led brand performance with 31.1 per cent growth to $533.1 million, while Merrell rose 8.4 per cent to $648.9 million.

The gross margin expanded to 47.3 per cent and diluted earnings per share more than doubled to $1.14 from $0.55.

Wolverine Worldwide has reported revenue of $1.874 billion in 2025, up 6.8 per cent, led by Active Group growth and strong Saucony performance.
Margins and earnings improved, while cash rose and debt declined.
Fourth-quarter revenue increased 4.6 per cent.
CEO Hufnagel highlighted brand momentum and transformation progress.
The company expects 2026 revenue growth with steady margins.

The company strengthened its balance sheet during the year, ending with cash of $206 million, up 35.6 per cent, and net debt reduced 16.2 per cent to $415 million. Inventory increased 10.7 per cent to $274 million, Wolverine Worldwide said in a press release.

The fourth quarter (Q4) revenue rose 4.6 per cent YoY to $517.5 million, supported by strong Active Group growth, particularly Saucony and Merrell. Active Group revenue increased 12.4 per cent to $372.7 million, while Work Group declined 11.3 per cent to $134 million. Gross margin improved to 47 per cent from 43.6 per cent, reflecting product cost savings, favourable mix and price increases, partly offset by higher US tariffs. Diluted earnings per share climbed to $0.38 from $0.28.

“We exceeded our expectations across all key metrics in the fourth quarter, finishing a solid year for the Company. Our biggest brands are growing around the world, direct-to-consumer (DTC) continues to improve, earnings per share increased meaningfully YoY, and I believe we’re finding our footing where we’ve underperformed,” said Chris Hufnagel, president and chief executive officer of Wolverine Worldwide. “I am pleased with our progress in transforming the company and encouraged by the momentum we have carried into 2026. We’re focused squarely on executing our brand-building model with pace and distinction—building awesome products, telling amazing stories, and driving the business each day.”

Looking ahead, Wolverine Worldwide expects fiscal 2026 revenue of $1.96-1.985 billion, representing growth of 4.6-5.9 per cent YoY. The company anticipates gross margin of about 46 per cent, operating margin of roughly 8.8 per cent and diluted earnings per share between $1.31 and $1.46, signalling continued but measured expansion as brand-driven strategy execution progresses, added the release.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)



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