Fashion
Shein sets up shop at Paris’ BHV: What’s on offer and what’s the concept?
Published
November 5, 2025
Wednesday, November 5, at 1pm. The opening of the Shein boutique at BHV Marais drew a large crowd. For several hours, the first customers waited in a long queue at the foot of the Parisian department store to enter the Chinese brand’s first permanent bricks-and-mortar store. On the other side of the street, dozens of demonstrators, local elected officials and union representatives voiced their disapproval at the much-maligned brand setting up shop.
The protest was largely ignored by the many enthusiastic customers celebrating the event, which began on the sixth floor, in the area dedicated to Shein, with an introductory speech followed by a countdown marking the official opening of the doors. Once the symbolic ribbon had been cut, Frédéric Merlin, managing director of BHV and Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), led the first customers through the store, presenting the different areas before concluding the tour at the tills. Facing numerous journalists from around the world, he said he was “very pleasantly surprised to see the enthusiasm for this opening, which is attracting new customers as well as regular BHV customers.”
The event quickly took on the feel of mass consumption, somewhere between curiosity and a shopping frenzy.
The new 1,000-square-metre space, mainly dedicated to womenswear, occupies a large open area segmented into several zones. Shein does not, however, occupy the entire level: a small part of the sixth floor is still devoted to Christmas décor. But there was certainly no party atmosphere in that area on Wednesday.
There is no major retail innovation in the layout. But the range is clearly compartmentalised: casualwear, sportswear, formalwear and accessories. Around 80% of the items are aimed at a female clientele across different profiles, the remainder forming a more limited menswear offer: zip-up jumpers, cargo trousers and other casual basics.
Clothes are presented on simple shelves fixed along the walls, while in the centre more classic rails display the vast majority of pieces on hangers. The overall look is restrained and clearly easy to reconfigure, but the staging is elevated by carefully chosen furnishings: marble, stone or glass tables add a chic touch, complemented by tempered-steel details.
The spaces are structured by zone, identified by Shein sub-brands such as Aralina, Motf, Dazy and Anewsta, offering a clear read of the range and a more premium visual impression. Each has a staging area with mannequins and a product presentation space. A few comfortable armchairs dotted around allow visitors to take a break, a sign that the brand also wanted to enhance the visitor experience.

On price, the promise of accessibility is clear: from a sports bra at €7.49 to a Dazy down jacket at €127.49, the store’s most expensive item. Yet although around 6,000 items have been selected, there is no sign of the €2 or €3 pieces that also helped drive the brand’s online success. Each in-store product carries a QR code on its label linking to the product page on the brand’s website, where prices are sometimes much lower online.
Another of Shein’s digital promises that does not necessarily carry over into the physical world is its offer for all body types. Sizes range from XS to XL, a more limited choice than online.
It is worth noting that the store features few screens, contrary to what you might expect from an e-commerce player. Here, Shein is asserting a physical presence and the classic conventions of apparel retail.
Finally, the opening did not escape controversy: beyond the gatherings in front of the building and the significant police presence around the event, protesters entered the Shein area to brandish placards and shout slogans against the Chinese retailer.
Despite this, inside the crowds were out in force. Bags filled, rails emptied. Shein has made a successful entry into the physical world, with a concept calibrated to appeal to a broad audience.
But what about the other floors of the department store? Merlin said he expected very low footfall on Wednesday. To try to generate traffic, the department store promised a voucher equivalent to the amount of Shein purchases made on Wednesday. Given the lacklustre traffic on the other seven levels, the pulling power of Shein as a locomotive for the whole of BHV remains to be demonstrated.
With Olivier Guyot
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Fashion
Rupee at 95/$: What it means for India’s textile sector
A perfect storm behind the rupee slide
The current depreciation is not cyclical; it is geopolitical and structural.
The Indian rupee’s sharp fall is creating a dual impact, boosting export competitiveness while simultaneously inflating input, energy, and logistics costs.
MMF segments are most exposed, as import dependence erodes margin gains from currency depreciation.
Demand weakness in the US and EU limits the benefit of improved pricing, creating a cost–demand mismatch.
- Oil shock from Middle East conflict: Brent crude surged past $110–115/barrel, sharply increasing India’s import bill
- Foreign capital outflows: Over $19 billion exited Indian equities, pressuring the currency
- Strong US dollar and high interest rates: Capital shifting towards dollar assets
- Trade and geopolitical uncertainty: Weakening investor confidence and export outlook
Together, these forces have pushed the rupee to record lows, with risks of further depreciation if conditions persist.
The Indian rupee’s fall past ₹95 per US dollar marks its steepest annual decline in 14 years, representing a critical moment for the textile and apparel (T&A) industry, reshaping cost structures, export competitiveness, and sourcing strategies simultaneously. While a weaker rupee traditionally boosts exporters by improving rupee realisations on dollar-denominated sales and enhancing India’s price competitiveness against peers like Bangladesh and Vietnam, the current depreciation is occurring alongside a sharp rise in crude oil prices and global uncertainty, creating a far more complex operating environment.
The industry’s heavy dependence on imported inputs, particularly in the man-made fibre (MMF) value chain, including polyester, PTA, MEG, dyes, and specialty chemicals, means that the currency shock is directly translating into higher raw material costs. This is further compounded by rising energy and logistics expenses, as fuel-linked inflation drives up power tariffs, freight rates, and processing costs across spinning, dyeing, and finishing segments. As a result, the initial export margin gains are already being diluted, especially for MMF-based manufacturers and vertically integrated players with significant import exposure.
At the same time, rupee volatility is intensifying working capital pressures across the value chain. Higher input costs are inflating inventory values, while fluctuating exchange rates are making export realisations less predictable and increasing the cost of hedging. For small and mid-sized enterprises, this could tighten liquidity cycles and increase dependence on short-term financing.
On the demand side, the situation remains equally challenging: key export markets such as the US and EU are grappling with inflation, cautious consumer spending, and elevated retail inventories, limiting order visibility despite improved pricing competitiveness from India. This creates a structural paradox where Indian suppliers are more cost-effective globally yet face subdued demand and heightened price resistance from international buyers.
Segment-wise, cotton textiles stand relatively insulated due to lower import dependency, whereas MMF and synthetic segments face the sharpest cost pressures, and garment exporters operate in a narrow margin band between currency gains and demand weakness.
In response, the industry is already undergoing strategic recalibration. Manufacturers are gradually shifting towards cotton and blended products to reduce exposure to volatile petrochemical inputs, while also strengthening foreign exchange risk management through increased hedging. There is a renewed push towards supply chain localisation, particularly for chemicals and trims, alongside efforts to renegotiate pricing with global buyers though with limited success in a demand-constrained environment.
Looking ahead, much will depend on the trajectory of crude oil prices, the potential for further rupee depreciation towards the ₹100/$ mark, and the effectiveness of policy interventions in stabilising currency markets. Ultimately, the rupee’s sharp fall is proving to be a double-edged sword for the T&A sector: offering short-term export advantages, but simultaneously accelerating cost inflation and exposing structural vulnerabilities, thereby forcing companies to prioritise efficiency, agility, and financial discipline in an increasingly volatile global trade landscape.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DL)
Fashion
China’s Anta Sports posts record $11.62 bn revenue in 2025
The operating profit increased by 15 per cent to RMB 19.09 billion (~$2.77 billion), while operating margin improved to 23.8 per cent, reflecting strong operational efficiency. Profit attributable to shareholders rose 13.9 per cent to RMB 13.59 billion, excluding one-off gains related to the Amer Sports listing.
Anta Sports has reported revenue of RMB 80.22 billion (~$11.62 billion) in 2025, up 13.3 per cent, strengthening its China market leadership with a 21.8 per cent share.
Operating profit rose 15 per cent, supported by margin improvement and strong growth across brands, especially Fila and Descente.
Solid cash flow, rising R&D investment, and ESG progress further reinforced its global top three position.
The company further expanded its domestic dominance, achieving an estimated market share of around 21.8 per cent, according to industry data. The company’s core ANTA brand generated revenue of RMB 34.75 billion, up 3.7 per cent, with operating profit reaching RMB 7.21 billion, maintaining steady growth, Anta Sports said in a press release.
Fila continued to outperform within the premium sports fashion segment, with revenue increasing 6.9 per cent to RMB 28.47 billion and operating profit rising 10.1 per cent to RMB 7.42 billion. Meanwhile, other brands delivered standout growth, with revenue surging 59.2 per cent to RMB 17 billion and operating profit climbing 55.3 per cent to RMB 4.74 billion. Notably, Descente’s retail sales surpassed RMB 10 billion for the first time.
The group’s financial position remained strong, with free cash flow of RMB 16.11 billion and a net cash position of approximately RMB 31.72 billion at year-end, underscoring its balance sheet strength and liquidity.
Anta also continued to invest in long-term capabilities. Research and development spending rose to RMB 2.2 billion, supported by the rollout of its AI365 strategy aimed at integrating artificial intelligence across the value chain. The company expanded its workforce to over 69,100 employees and supported nearly 300,000 direct and indirect jobs.
On the sustainability front, Anta achieved inclusion in the Hang Seng ESG 50 Index and improved its MSCI ESG rating to ‘AA’. Its total charitable contributions exceeded RMB 800 million in 2025, taking cumulative donations beyond RMB 3.5 billion.
The company’s strong financial and operational performance highlights its ability to scale profitably while investing in innovation, sustainability and brand equity, further consolidating its leadership in China’s highly competitive sportswear market.
Ding Shizhong, executive director and board chairman of Anta Sports, said, “In 2025, amid a complex and rapidly changing environment, we once again delivered resilient growth by staying true to our single focus, multi-brand, globalization strategy. Each of our brands delivered differentiated, high-quality growth. Growth is the best corporate culture, but it is not about simple expansion of scale.”
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (SG)
Fashion
UK commits $1.25 mn to trade facilitation programme for 2026–29
The programme is jointly implemented by UN Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the World Customs Organization and UK Customs.
The UK has committed around $1.25 million in funding for the ‘Accelerate Trade Facilitation’ programme for the 2026-2029 period.
The programme is jointly implemented by UNCTAD, the World Customs Organization and UK Customs.
The latest phase will expand the programme’s capacity-building activities and introduce the Reform Tracker tool to up to three additional countries.
For more than a decade, the programme has supported over 30 economies to speed up the movement of goods and strengthen cooperation between the public and private sectors.
“We will build on the strong and sustained impact achieved by partner countries over the last 11 years of the programme, strengthening national trade facilitation committees and driving practical, lasting reforms that make trade simpler, faster and more inclusive while supporting economic growth,” said Megan Shaw, deputy director of international customs and border engagement at UK Customs in an UNCTAD release.
The programme will continue to place national trade facilitation committees (NTFCs) at the core of its work. NTFCs serve as coordination platforms where government agencies and businesses identify bottlenecks, agree on priorities and advance trade facilitation reforms.
UNCTAD has supported them through specialised training, including via its trade facilitation e-learning platform, and practical tools such as the Reform Tracker. The tool helps countries monitor progress on trade facilitation reforms and keep society-wide collaborators aligned.
“These reforms contribute to a trading environment that is faster, cheaper, more transparent and more predictable—conditions that help businesses compete and grow,” said Angel Gonzalez Sanz, officer-in-charge of UNCTAD’s division on technology and logistics.
The 2026-2029 phase will expand the programme’s capacity-building activities and introduce the Reform Tracker to up to three additional countries.
These efforts will help deepen digitalisation and improve coordination between border agencies—measures crucial to reducing costs and processing times for traders.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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