Fashion
US apparel and footwear deals surge to record $21B as brands react to tariff pressure
By
Reuters
Published
September 18, 2025
U.S. President Donald Trump’s trade war is helping push U.S. clothing and footwear acquisitions to all-time highs this year, with some companies merging to help offset tariff costs while others go private to weather the next 3-1/2 years of his presidency outside the public market, dealmakers say.
Popular sneaker company Skechers announced a $9.42 billion deal in early May to go private, days after it withdrew its annual earnings forecasts and sent a letter — along with 75 other footwear companies — to Trump, stating that the tariffs were an “existential threat” to the industry.
Sneaker seller Foot Locker, which also signed the letter to Trump, in May accelerated its $2.4 billion sale to Dick’s Sporting Goods. While both deals were in the works for months, bankers and analysts said Trump’s tariffs are creating both chaos and opportunity for retailers and brands to explore tie-ups. This has driven dealmaking in the U.S. footwear and apparel sectors to roughly $21 billion in announced deals year-to-date.
With more than three months left in the year, that figure is already a record, according to LSEG data dating back to the 1970s — particularly surprising for an industry where valuations are not nearly as lofty as those in tech or financial services. The previous record for U.S. apparel and footwear M&A was last year’s $16.1 billion, and before that, 2021’s $15.6 billion, according to LSEG.
“Scale is more important in a tariff-rich environment because you can negotiate better terms across a larger base with many of your counterparties,” said Carmen Molinos, Morgan Stanley’s global co-head of consumer retail investment banking.
Morgan Stanley advised Canadian apparel maker Gildan Activewear on its acquisition last month of U.S. underwear maker Hanesbrands for $2.2 billion.
Both companies produce more in Central America and the Caribbean than in Asia, and primarily use U.S.-grown cotton, which provides them with some protection from tariffs. The combination insulates them more from fluctuating geopolitics, and Gildan was one company looking to get bigger amid the chaos.
“We think that we’re really well aligned to take advantage, actually, of this near-shoring opportunity,” Gildan’s CEO and co-founder Glenn Chamandy said on an August investor call about the deal.
Tariffs were a shock to the system that showed retailers just how quickly their businesses could get disrupted, highlighting the importance of scale, several bankers said.
“In moments of turmoil and change, those who are in a position of strength are looking to build up on those strengths, and if they see the right strategic fit, they’re taking advantage (and buying),” said JPMorgan’s Jonathan Dunlop, co-head of North America consumer and retail investment banking.
This year, JPMorgan advised 3G Capital on Skechers and brand management firm Authentic Brands Group’s $1.4 billion deal last month for Guess. Authentic also picked up Dockers from Levi Strauss, while another brand management firm, Bluestar Alliance, announced a deal to buy Dickies from VF Corp this week.
Brand management firms typically buy a brand’s IP and then license it to operating partners that handle manufacturing, design, and sales.
“The brand management companies have been some of the most prolific acquirers of both middle-market and a handful of multi-billion-dollar retail brands,” said David Shiffman, partner and head of consumer retail at Solomon Partners. The bank advised the special committee of Guess.
Navigating the uncertainty
Going private, as in Skechers’ case, is becoming an increasingly attractive option to navigate the uncertainty without the pressure of public quarterly reporting — especially if companies feel the public market is not valuing them appropriately.
Foot Locker, meanwhile, had been in discussions about a sale since Dick’s Executive Chairman Edward Stack first reached out to rival CEO Mary Dillon in January 2024.
Trump’s April 2 self-styled “Liberation Day,” when he announced sweeping new global tariffs, helped seal the deal earlier than expected, according to an SEC filing. Foot Locker said tariffs were causing the company’s stock to drop and that it was headed for a weaker-than-expected first-quarter earnings report — a development executives feared would further depress shares.
The board decided on May 10 to try to bring “negotiations to a close quickly,” it said in a securities filing. The next four days were a flurry of paperwork and legal meetings before the companies announced their deal — with two weeks to spare before reporting earnings.
Bankers advise watching for more tie-ups later this year as stronger retailers seek deals and struggling companies look for partners.
Private equity firm Bain Capital is trying to offload its stake in Canada Goose, and Lands’ End has received offers from brand management firms.
© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.
Fashion
South Indian cotton yarn under pressure on weak demand
In the Mumbai market, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged as the loom sector slowed production. Although spinning mills are looking to raise their selling rates, they have not found sufficient demand. A Mumbai-based trader told Fibre*Fashion, “Power and auto looms are facing limited fabric buying from the garment industry. Export prospects are still unclear. Domestic demand is also insufficient to support any price rise. Mills are comfortable with falling cotton prices, while buyers remain silent on yarn purchases.”
In Mumbai, ** carded yarn of warp and weft varieties were traded at ****;*,***–*,*** (~$**.**–**.**) and ****;*,***–*,*** per * kg (~$**.**–**.**) (excluding GST), respectively. Other prices include ** combed warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, ** carded weft at ****;*,***–*,*** (~$**.**–**.** per *.* kg, **/** carded warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, **/** carded warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg and **/** combed warp at ****;***–*** (~$*.**–*.**) per kg, according to trade sources.
Fashion
Bangladesh–US tariff deal may have limited impact on India
Bangladesh is already among the top suppliers of apparel to the US, particularly in basic knit and woven categories such as T-shirts, trousers and sweaters. A tariff advantage, even if modest, could sharpen its price competitiveness in high-volume, price-sensitive segments dominated by mass retailers.
The proposed Bangladesh–US trade understanding offering near zero-tariff access for garments has sparked debate in India’s textile sector.
While Bangladesh may gain a price edge in basic apparel, industry leaders believe the effective advantage could be limited to 2–3 per cent due to raw material dependence, capacity constraints and logistics costs.
However, Indian industry leaders argue that the net gain for Bangladesh may be restricted to around 2–3 per cent in effective competitiveness. They point to structural constraints, including Bangladesh’s heavy reliance on imported raw materials. A significant share of its fabric and yarn requirements is sourced from China and India, limiting flexibility in rules-of-origin compliance if strict value-addition conditions are attached to the deal.
Capacity limitations in spinning, weaving and man-made fibre processing are also seen as bottlenecks. While Bangladesh has built scale in garmenting, its upstream integration remains narrower than India’s diversified fibre-to-fashion base. Indian exporters emphasise that integrated supply chains offer advantages in speed, customisation and smaller batch production.
Logistics and lead times may further temper expectations. Distance from major US ports, coupled with infrastructure pressures and global shipping volatility, could offset part of the tariff benefit. In contrast, Indian suppliers have been investing in port connectivity, digital compliance systems and flexible production models to strengthen reliability.
Industry representatives also highlight that US buyers are increasingly factoring in sustainability, traceability and geopolitical risk. India’s growing adoption of renewable energy in textile clusters, compliance with global standards and broader product depth may help it retain strategic sourcing partnerships.
While some diversion of orders in basic categories cannot be ruled out, exporters believe the overall impact will be incremental rather than disruptive. The consensus view is that tariff preference alone is unlikely to override considerations of scale, compliance, diversification and long-term supply-chain resilience.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)
Fashion
US lawmakers introduce Last Sale Valuation Act to end customs loophole
“This bill protects Louisiana workers and American businesses, ensuring loopholes don’t hold them back,” Dr Cassidy said in a press release.
US Senators Bill Cassidy and Sheldon Whitehouse have introduced the Last Sale Valuation Act to close the ‘first sale’ customs loophole that lets importers underpay duties.
The bipartisan bill would base tariffs on final sale values, strengthen US Customs enforcement and curb duty evasion.
Supporters say it will protect American manufacturers, workers and federal revenue.
If passed, the bipartisan measure would grant clearer enforcement authority to US Customs and Border Protection (CBP), streamline valuation reviews and reduce disputes over documentation, while curbing mis-invoicing and related-party pricing schemes linked to tariff evasion and illicit financial activity.
The legislation has drawn support from the American Compass, the Coalition for a Prosperous America and the Southern Shrimp Alliance.
“Cassidy’s ‘Last Sale Valuation Act’ strengthens customs valuation by assessing duties on the final transaction value of goods entering the US,” said Mark A DiPlacido, senior political economist at the American Compass, adding that closing the judicially created ‘first sale’ loophole would reduce duty evasion, simplify enforcement and increase customs revenue.
Jon Toomey, president of the Coalition for a Prosperous America, said the bill is “an important first step in restoring customs integrity,” ensuring duties are paid on the true commercial value of imported goods and helping level the playing field for American manufacturers and workers.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (CG)
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