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We Made More Than a Thousand Pizzas to Find the Best Pizza Ovens

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We Made More Than a Thousand Pizzas to Find the Best Pizza Ovens


Compare the Top 8 Pizza Ovens

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Who We Are and How We Tested

WIRED reviewer Adrienne So has tested many pizza ovens and made more than a thousand pizzas over the past seven years. WIRED reviewer Matthew Korfhage is a longtime food writer who’s written about pizza on both coasts over 15 years, from sausage slices in Portland to the story of Mexican pizza in Philadelphia.

We test each pizza oven over the course of a few weeks, using homemade dough (Adrienne likes Ooni’s classic pizza dough recipe), fresh dough balls procured from local pizzerias, store-bought fresh dough, and frozen pizzas. We use infrared thermometers to make sure the temperature of the cooking surface is consistent (and is what the built-in thermometer says it is). Where relevant, we also cross-check built-in thermometers on each oven against our own ambient thermometers.

Pizza ovens are also quite a bit more versatile than you might think. Over years of testing, Adrienne has used her pizza ovens to sear steaks, quick-cook salmon, and pan-fry broccoli. Matthew has air-fried wings in a pizza oven, grilled pork chops, charred asparagus, and blackened chicken.

It’s taken me many years, and many thousands of pizzas, to refine my pizza-making technique. And to be honest, my Neapolitan-style pizzas don’t really meet the standard set by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the world authority on Neapolitan pizzas. (Ooni pizza ovens, including previous models of our top-rated Karu 2, are the only models we recommend that the AVPN has also recommended.)

But over the years, I have accumulated a few tips for those of you who find making a pizza to be a little bit awkward or intimidating. If you’ve refrigerated your dough, bring it to room temperature first. Sprinkle flour lightly on the peel before you stretch the dough across and assemble your pizza, to keep dough from sticking. (Some use cornmeal, but note that cornmeal can burn and become bitter in a hot oven.) Be patient and stretch your dough from the inside out. It is cheating, but I also am guilty of using a tiny rolling pin ($10) to help me get the dough as thin as possible.

An authentic Neapolitan pie will use a few specific ingredients. When you’re making your own dough, reach for 00 flour, which is milled specifically for pizza and pasta. Fresh mozzarella will make your pizza damp, so I use a mix of fresh and shredded, low-moisture cheese for the cheesiest, meltiest pie. If you’re not sticking to a strictly Neapolitan recipe, we also have a few favorite pies we’d like to recommend. Senior director Martin Cizmar and I like a good Buffalo pie with Frank’s Red Hot and pickles. I also recently tried Brightland’s Pizza Oil in a squeeze bottle; while it’s good as a finishing sauce to drizzle over pies, you could make your own for much cheaper by putting olive oil and herbs in a squeeze bottle.

Besides ‘zas, I cook everything from salmon to steak to chicken thighs in my pizza oven by preheating a cast iron pan in a hot oven and popping the food right in. For more guidance, Ooni has a cookbook; chef Francis Mallmann’s books are also a good source of inspiration. —Adrienne So

Is your patio already occupied by a giant Traeger? Your grill or smoker probably has a pizza attachment that you can buy for less than a new oven. Cizmar’s favorite is the Yoder Smoker wood-fired oven attachment ($499), which has saved him from many a night of pellet fire flameouts. It sits under the smoker’s hood, atop a steel sheet that sits over the firebox. The sheet is a diffuser and has holes of increasing size as you move away from the fire, so that the section farthest from the flame gets more exposure. The design provides a consistent temperature along the oven’s floor, and it works well, with the farthest corners of the oven still cresting 650 degrees Fahrenheit.

You can also turn your normal, indoor oven into a pizza oven. While most ovens max out at 500 degrees Fahrenheit, one way to impart more heat to your pizza is by preheating a baking surface with a high thermal mass, which maintains temperature stability and directly delivers its stored-up heat energy. An easy way to do this is by preheating a cast-iron pan or baking steel. A classic Lloyd pan is one preferred tool for Detroit- or Sicilian-style pan pizza, which works well in conventional ovens.

Several of our favorite grill and pizza oven manufacturers, like Kamado and Weber, also make ceramic pizza stones. Check out our guide to the Best Portable Grills and Grill Accessories for more.

Honorable Mentions

We’ve tried a lot of pizza ovens. Here are a few that we liked that didn’t quite make our top picks.

Photograph: Stove Pi Prime

Solo Stove Pi Prime for $450: The Solo Stove Pi Prime remains a very, very tight contender for our top gas oven pick. If you’ve heard of Solo Stove, it’s because of its smokeless, stainless steel fire pits. This made the company’s transition to high-heat pizza ovens more or less seamless. Instead of the conventional elongated design, the Pi Prime oven’s fuel attachments are long and slim and hug the back of the oven. This allows Solo Stove to keep its signature round, symmetrical design. This really is a great design, and this remarkably compact propane pizza oven has previously been among WIRED’s top picks. The cooking surface is large enough to accommodate a large Lodge cast-iron pan. If you have a small backyard, the top’s flat surface is a convenient storage space, and the stove doesn’t sacrifice any of its heating capabilities for these details. So why is the Koda 2 better than Solo Stove Pi Prime in our books? The Koda 2 allows for bigger 14-inch pies, and the broader opening makes launching a bit easier. (But note, if you live in a windy area, the Pi Prime offers better wind shielding than the Koda.)

Our 8 Favorite Pizza Ovens Wood Gas Electric and Grill

Photograph: Matthew Korfhage

Halo Versa 16 for $499: At first blush, the Halo Versa 16 appears to offer much the same specs as the All-Clad gas-powered pizza oven, but for half the price. It’s got a rotating pizza stone, room for a 16-inch pie, and a clever extra feature: a little heater under the pizza stone. This said, the built-in thermometer isn’t accurate (at all!), and insulation isn’t the best, leading to a hot exterior. The oven doesn’t reach its advertised top temps of 950 degrees Fahrenheit, though it can generally heat the stone to about 800 degrees. Consider this a better oven for New York–style pies, at a quite affordable price when you take into account the rotating stone.

Gozney pizza oven with a lit fire

Gozney

Gozney Roccbox for $499: When Adrienne So first reviewed the dual-fuel Gozney Roccbox, she praised the fast recovery time that has made the Roccbox popular among pizza pop-up chefs, allowing her to make 10 pies in less than 30 minutes when cooking pizza with propane. That said, few home pizza makers need such throughput, and the 44-pound device is heavier than other competitors. The optional woodbox was oppressively difficult to use, for those who want the ability to cook with fire. But the Gozney’s price, previously among the most expensive entrants, now seems downright reasonable. And Matthew Korfhage’s experience using the default propane option has been good, with terrific temperature stability.

Ooni Karu, First Edition for $349: Ooni is still selling the previous generation oven of WIRED’s top pick, the Karu 2, for about $100 less. Like other Ooni pizza ovens, OG Karu is an excellent oven—light, portable, and easy to clean—and WIRED reviewer Adrienne So couldn’t stop using the thing after first testing it. Nonetheless the newer Karu 2 heats more evenly, and holds more fuel than the first-generation oven.

Ooni Koda 12 for $399: The original Ooni Koda 12 is a mere 21 pounds, making it the most light and portable Koda. Its thin, powder-coated steel shell insulates well enough that it remains cool to the touch, even when the fire is burning. Just slide in the baking stone, screw on the propane tank, and you’re ready to go. The door fits 12-inch pizza peels and 10-inch cast-iron skillets. However, you should not store it outside.

This image may contain Appliance

Photograph: Breville

Breville Pizzaiolo for $800: The Breville Pizzaiolo was our prior top-pick electric pizza oven, and like a lot of Breville devices it offers beauteous ease of use and admirable technological sophistication, with three separate heating elements and two sensors that make sure each part of your pie is perfectly cooked. Where the first-generation Ooni Volt edged it out was with better insulation, a higher max temperature, and more versatility for cooking other things besides pizza. Note, however, that the Volt will soon be fully phased out for the second-generation Volt 2, which follows Breville’s lead in moving toward greater automation.

Image may contain Device Electrical Device Appliance Burner and Oven

Cuisinart 3-in-1 Propel Pizza Oven and Grill for $600: This Cuisinart Propel 3-in-1 offers an ingenious design. It’s a four-burner stand-up grill and griddle that’s perfectly good for burgers or pancakes—but with a pizza stone and mount, and a domed pizza lid. A smoked-glass door and temperature gauge lets you monitor your pie and turn your pizza without losing all the heat, while the side griddle means you can even cook toppings or sauces on the same device, without having to wander inside and outside. The extra workspace offered by the side tables is likewise truly welcome. But there are trade-offs to this versatility. You can heat your stone above 900 degrees Fahrenheit without trouble, but you won’t get reliable ambient baking temps above 750. And so there’s a bit of a learning curve. You’ll want to turn your middle burners down but leave the side burners on, to cook something between a New York pie and a Neapolitan. The build’s also a little clattery, and the poorly made burner knobs have an irritating habit of slipping on their pegs. This last flaw knocked this oven down to our honorable mentions, despite the Propel’s cleverness and versatility.

Small pizza oven sitting on a black shelf outdoors beside a house

Photograph: Adrienne So

Ninja Wood-Fired Oven for $300: If you’re looking for a remarkably sturdy and versatile outdoor oven, this is a pretty good pick with a top temperature of 700 degrees Fahrenheit. The door is a little sticky, which makes baking pizza at high heat a little tricky, but if you want one device that can do everything from smoking a pork shoulder to making muffins to bake a pizza pie, this is your pick.

The Piezano for $100: This TikTok-popular oven is affordable, small, and convenient. It looks a little like a waffle iron, and comes with handy double paddles for easier placement. Astonishingly, its claims of heating the top and bottom elements to 800 degrees Fahrenheit are accurate, and it takes about 15 minutes, which allows for short cook times. But note the heating element at the top doesn’t cover the whole surface area, so you have to rotate your pies pretty frequently. Also, opening the top like a waffle maker means that it doesn’t retain heat very well. It dropped by 100 to 200 degrees between pies and requires a bit of recovery time.

Also Tested

Image may contain Appliance Device Electrical Device Microwave Oven Adult and Person

Photograph: Matthew Korfhage

Current Backyard Model P for $699: No less a TV food personage than Alton Brown has signed on as an endorser of this 1,750-watt electric indoor/outdoor pizza oven, which will heat to 850 degrees Fahrenheit using a standard power outlet. Heat is relatively even across the oven, and it’ll get up to top temp in around 30 minutes. But cook settings are constrained to a few preset levels (New-York style, thin crust, Neapolitan, frozen), whose temps and cooking times can be a bit fussy to fiddle with. The app and on-device controls tend to offer more quirks than functionality. Display temp and actual temp don’t always match, and its top thermal elements turn on and off like the lights in a David Lynch movie, according to what the company calls a proprietary algorithm. Still, you can make a great pizza on this thing, and you can make it indoors. Current says it plans to add more functions and cooking modes in future updates, and we’ll keep testing. But it feels less than fully baked at the moment, especially at its price.

Pizzacraft Pizzaque for $130: This oven is adorable and affordable, and you can stand it in your driveway and cook a good pizza while sitting in your camp chair. However, it just doesn’t get as hot or cook as evenly as a better-insulated oven does.

The Best Accessories

Some pizza ovens provide you with proprietary accessories to set you on your pizza path. But we’ve also found a few extras to be helpful along the way:

A handheld infrared thermometer for $11: Even if the oven has a built-in thermometer, a handheld infrared thermometer is a great way to check the temperature on different areas of the pizza stone. It’s also important to make sure the stone has time to reheat after each pizza. For pizza purposes, this affordable one should be accurate enough to suit your needs.

A wooden pizza peel for $34: If you own multiple peels, it’s quick and easy to prep one pizza while another is baking. WIRED reviewers Adrienne So and Matthew Korfhage each own several peels, including a useful small turning peel. But for launching, the dough is much less likely to stick on a wooden peel, especially if you first sprinkle on some semolina or flour.

A cast-iron skillet for $25: You can also use a cast-iron pan in your pizza oven to sear steaks or pan-roast broccoli. Lodge’s pans work just as well as much more expensive options.

Heat-resistant gloves for $20: That cast iron gets extremely hot, so you’ll also need a good pair of mitts. (Even these won’t protect your hands for long, so you’ll need a place near the oven to set the pan down.)

Fire starters for $20: If you’ve ever been intimidated by the idea of cooking with wood, don’t be! These fire starters make it quick and simple. Just light the end with a match, drop it in the fuel tray, and line up a few oak sticks on top. Be sure to keep your wood dry if you don’t want to create a smoke stack in your backyard.


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OpenAI, Anthropic, and Block Are Teaming Up to Make AI Agents Play Nice

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OpenAI, Anthropic, and Block Are Teaming Up to Make AI Agents Play Nice


OpenAI, Anthropic, and Block have cofounded a new open source organization—the Agentic AI Foundation—to promote standards for artificial intelligence agents.

The three companies are also transferring ownership of some widely used agentic technologies over to the foundation. This includes Anthropic’s Model Context Protocol (MCP), which allows agents to connect and interact; OpenAI’s Agents.md, which lets programs and websites specify rules for coding agents; and Goose, a framework for building agents developed by Block. These technologies were already free to use, but through the new foundation it will be possible for others to contribute to their development.

“MCP is used by many companies, but there are others [who don’t use it],” says Nick Cooper, who leads work on the protocol at OpenAI. Cooper says that making MCP an open standard should encourage developers and companies to embrace it and build systems that integrate agentic AI. “That open interoperability—that open standard—really means that companies can talk across providers, and across agentic systems.”

The Agentic AI Foundation is being created under the Linux Foundation, which oversees development of the widely used open source Linux operating system as well as other projects. The foundation provides legal and technological support for the creation of open source foundations. Other companies who have signed on to the AAIF, beyond the three founding members, include Google, Microsoft, AWS, Bloomberg, and Cloudflare.

The new foundation reflects a nascent shift from chat-based AI systems to greater use of programs that take actions on behalf of users. This kind of agentic AI promises a potentially lucrative new paradigm in which AI agents use the web and negotiate with one another to power all sorts of applications. Consumers may, for example, use AI assistants to buy and book things, while businesses use AI agents to manage transactions and customer interactions.

Srinivas Narayanan, chief technology officer of B2B applications at OpenAI, envisions a time when large numbers of AI agents routinely communicate with one another in the course of business. The AI industry working across the same open standards should help ensure that those interactions happen seamlessly. “Open source is going to play a very big role in how AI is shaped and adopted in the real world,” Narayanan says.

The question of openness seems crucial to AI right now. US companies mostly make money by offering access to powerful closed models through application programming interfaces, or APIs. Meta previously released the weights for its best model, Llama, so that anyone could download and run it, although the company has recently signaled a shift to a more closed approach. A number of Chinese AI companies, including DeepSeek, Alibaba, Moonshot AI, and Z.ai, provide strong open source models that have become popular with developers, startups, and AI researchers. Some worry that this picture could give Chinese firms a big strategic advantage over time.



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Pebble Is Making a $75 Smart Ring

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Pebble Is Making a  Smart Ring


There’s no way to recharge the ring. Migicovsky says he didn’t want yet another gadget to charge every day, so instead, the Pebble Index has non-rechargeable silver oxide hearing aid batteries designed to last 2 years with average use. Once the device’s battery is nearly dead, users will receive a notification in the app, and the idea is you’ll buy a new Pebble Index—an idea that’s easier to get behind knowing the ring costs just $75, though the price will jump to $99 after the first batch. (You’ll also be able to send your old Index to the company for recycling.)

When your audio is sent to your phone, an open source speech-to-text AI model processes it locally to convert your voice notes to text. Then, an on-device large language model will categorize the audio, deciding whether it’s a reminder, a timer, or a general note. A feed shows all your memory logs, and you scroll through it to find and listen to each clip. None of this data is ever sent to the cloud; it all stays on your phone. “These are your innermost thoughts,” Migicovsky says. “You don’t want to send them anywhere.”

By default, all of your musings with the ring are handled by the Pebble app. So if you had it set a reminder, you’ll get one from the Pebble app. However, you can customize the destination if you prefer to use your own service. If you use the Notion app for notes and tasks, for example, you can set it up so that your reminders and thoughts will be sent there.

Broad Strokes

Wear the Index on your index finger.

Courtesy of Pebble

The open source nature of the Pebble app means there’s no limit to customization. You press and hold the button to log a note, but you can have a single press trigger an action. Migicovsky says he set his to play or pause music, and a double-press switches tracks. But you can set it to take a photo remotely or activate a smart home routine. There will be an actions category in the Pebble app store where folks can publish their custom actions.



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Why bug bounty schemes have not led to secure software | Computer Weekly

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Why bug bounty schemes have not led to secure software | Computer Weekly


Governments should make software companies liable for developing insecure computer code. So says Katie Moussouris, the white hat hacker and security expert who first persuaded Microsoft and the Pentagon to offer financial rewards to security researchers who found and reported serious security vulnerabilities.

Bug bounty schemes have since proliferated and have now become the norm for software companies, with some, such as Apple, offering awards of $2m or more to those who find critical security vulnerabilities.

Moussouris likens security vulnerability research to working for Uber, only with lower pay and less job security. The catch is that people only get paid if they are the first to find and report a vulnerability. Those who put in the work but get results second or third get nothing.

“Intrinsically, it is exploitative of the labour market. You are asking them to do speculative labour, and you are getting something quite valuable out of them,” she says.

Some white hat hackers, motivated by helping people fix security problems, have managed to make a living by specialising in finding medium-risk vulnerabilities that may not pay as well as the high-risk bugs, but are easier to find.

But most security researchers struggle to make a living as bug bounty hunters.

“Very few researchers are capable of finding those elite-level vulnerabilities, and very few of the ones that are capable think it is worth their while to chase a bug bounty. They would rather have a nice contract or a full-time role,” she says.

Ethical hacking comes with legal risks

Its not just the lack of a steady income. Security researchers also face legal risks from anti-hacking laws, such as the UK’s Computer Misuse Act and the US’s draconian Computer Fraud and Abuse Act.

When Moussouris joined Microsoft in 2007, she persuaded the company to announce that it would not prosecute bounty hunters if they found online vulnerabilities in Microsoft products and reported them responsibly. Other software companies have since followed suit.

The UK government has now recognised the problem and promised to introduce a statutory defence for cyber security researchers who spot and share vulnerabilities to protect them from prosecution.

Another issue is that many software companies insist on security researchers signing a non-disclosure agreement (NDA) before paying them for their vulnerability disclosures.

This flies against the best practices for security disclosures, which Moussouris has championed through the International Standards Organisation (ISO).

When software companies pay the first person to discover a vulnerability a bounty in return for signing an NDA, that creates an incentive for those who find the same vulnerability to publicly disclose it, increasing the risk that a bad actor will exploit it for criminal purposes.

Worse, some companies use NDAs to keep vulnerabilities hidden but don’t take steps to fix them, says Moussouris, whose company, Luta Security, manages and advises on bug bounty and vulnerability disclosure programmes.

“We often see a big pile of unfixed bugs,” she says. “And some of these programmes are well funded by publicly traded companies that have plenty of cyber security employees, application security engineers and funding.”

Some companies appear to regard bug bounties as a replacement for secure coding and proper investment in software testing.

“We are using bug bounties as a stop-gap, as a way to potentially control the public disclosure of bugs, and we are not using them to identify symptoms that can diagnose our deeper lack of security controls,” she adds.

Ultimately, Moussouris says, governments will have to step in and change laws to make software companies liable for errors in their software, in much the same way car manufacturers are responsible for safety flaws in their vehicles.

“All governments have pretty much held off on holding software companies responsible and legally liable, because they wanted to encourage the growth of their industry,” she says. “But that has to change at a certain point, like automobiles were not highly regulated, and then seatbelts were required by law.”

AI could lead to less secure code

The rise of artificial intelligence (AI) could make white hat hackers redundant altogether, but perhaps not in a way that leads to better software security.

All of the major bug bounty platforms in the US are using AI to help with the triage of vulnerabilities and to augment penetration testing.

An AI-powered penetration testing platform, XBow, recently topped the bug bounty leaderboard by using AI to focus on relatively easy-to-find vulnerabilities and testing likely candidates in a systematic way to harvest security bugs.

“Once we create the tools to train AI to make it appear to be as good, or better in a lot of cases, than humans, you are pulling the rug out of the market. And then where are we going to get the next bug bounty expert?” she asks.

The current generation of experts with the skills to spot when AI systems are missing something important is in danger of disappearing.

“Bug bounty platforms are moving towards an automated, driverless version of bug bounties, where AI agents are going to take the place of human bug hunters,” she says.

Unfortunately, it’s far easier for AI to find software bugs than it is to use AI to fix them. And companies are not investing as much as they should in using AI to mitigate security risks.

“We have to figure out how to change that equation very quickly. It is easier to find and report a bug than it is for AI to write and test a patch,” she says.

Bug bounties have failed

Moussouris, a passionate and enthusiastic advocate of bug bounty schemes, is the first to acknowledge that bug bounty schemes have, in one sense, failed.

Some things have improved. Software developers have shifted to better programming languages and frameworks that make it harder to introduce particular classes of vulnerability, such as cross-site scripting errors.

But there is, she suggests, too much security theatre. Companies still address faults because they are visible, but hold off fixing things that the public can’t see, or use non-disclosure agreements to buy silence from researchers to keep vulnerabilities from the public.

Moussouris believes that AI will ultimately take over from human bug researchers, but says the loss of expertise will damage security.

The world is on the verge of another industrial revolution, but it will be bigger and faster than the last industrial revolution. In the 19th century, people left agriculture to work long hours in factories, often in dangerous conditions for poor wages.

As AI takes over more tasks currently carried out by people, unemployment will rise, incomes will fall and economies risk stagnation, Moussouris predicts.

The only answer, she believes, is for governments to tax AI companies and use the proceeds to provide the population with a universal basic income (UBI). “I think it has to, or literally there will be no way for capitalism to survive,” she says. “The good news is that human engineering ingenuity is still intact for now. I still believe in our ability to hack our way out of this problem.”

Growing tensions between governments and bug bounty hunters

The work of bug bounty hunters has also been impacted by moves to require software technology companies to report vulnerabilities to governments before they fix them.

It began with China in 2021, which required tech companies to disclose new vulnerabilities within 48 hours of discovery.

“It was very clear that they were going to evaluate whether or not they were going to use vulnerabilities for offensive purposes,” says Moussouris.

In 2020, the European Union (EU) introduced the Cyber Resilience Act (CRA), which introduced similar disclosure obligations, ostensibly to allow European government to prepare their cyber defences.

Moussouris is a co-author of the ISO standard on vulnerability disclosure. One of its principles is to limit the knowledge of security bugs to the smallest number of people before they are fixed.

The EU argues that its approach will be safe because it is not asking for a deep technical explanation of the vulnerabilities, nor is it asking for proof-of-concept code to show how vulnerabilities can be exploited.

But that misses the point, says Moussouris. Widening the pool of people with access to information about vulnerabilities will make leaks more likely and raises the risk that criminal hackers or hostile nation-states will exploit them for crime or espionage.

Risk from hostile nations

Moussouris does not doubt that hostile nations will exploit the weakest links in government bug notification schemes to learn new security exploits. If they are already using those vulnerabilities for offensive hacking, they will be able to cover their tracks.

“I anticipate there will be an upheaval in the threat intelligence landscape because our adversaries absolutely know this law is going to take effect. They are certainly positioning themselves to learn about these things through the leakiest party that gets notified,” she says.

“And they will either start targeting that particular software, if they weren’t already, or start pulling back their operations or hiding their tracks if they were the ones using it. It’s counterproductive,” she adds.

Moussouris is concerned that the US will likely follow the EU by introducing its own bug reporting scheme. “I am just holding my breath, anticipating that the US is going to follow, but I have been warning them against it.”

The UK’s equities programme

In the UK, GCHQ regulates government use of security vulnerabilities for spying through a process known as the equities scheme.

That involves security experts weighing up whether the UK would place its own critical systems at risk if it failed to notify software suppliers of potential exploits against the potential value of the exploit for gathering intelligence.

The process has a veneer of rationality, but it falls down because, in practice, government experts can have no idea how widespread vulnerabilities are in the critical national infrastructure. Even large suppliers like Microsoft have trouble tracking where their own products are used.

“When I was working at Microsoft, it was very clear that while Microsoft had a lot of visibility into what was deployed in the world, there were tonnes of things out there that they wouldn’t know about until they were exploited,” she says.

“The fact that Microsoft, with all its telemetry ability to know where its customers are, struggled means there is absolutely no way to gauge in a reliable way how vulnerable we are,” she adds.

Kate Moussouris spoke to Computer Weekly at the SANS CyberThreat Summit.



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