Fashion
‘Curly is beautiful’: Tunisian women embrace natural hair
By
AFP
Published
August 21, 2025
In countries around the world, beauty standards have shifted radically in recent years, with a growing number of beauty salons and cosmetic brands in Tunisia promoting natural styles.
Still, the battle is far from won, and many women in Tunisia still rush to get their hair straightened ahead of a wedding or a meeting, and some fear that if they do not wear their hair straight for a job interview, they might not get hired.
Advocates for wearing one’s natural hair believe that at the root of the stigma around curls lies a form of discrimination that they call “texturism”.
“The further you move away from what is considered Afro, kinky or curly, the more socially accepted you are,” said Nawal Benali, a journalist and host of a podcast on racism in North Africa. “Because that’s a marker of proper appearance and presentability.”
Benali said the standards had first been set in “the white, Western world”, calling the obsession around straight hair an attempt to “erase our Indigenous and African features”.
Dhouha Mechergui, who co-founded Pineapple Studio, recalled having her hair straightened by her mother ahead of every religious holiday growing up. She said it took courage to make her own switch to natural, and that she had to work hard to convince women to embrace their curls and come to her salon. “Sometimes I play the role of psychiatrist, because I know making that decision is very difficult,” she said.
Aside from the drive for greater authenticity, health concerns have become a part of the debate, with one major study by the US National Institutes of Health linking chemical hair straightening products to a higher risk of uterine cancer.
For generations, people around the world were told to straighten, braid, cut or otherwise conceal their curls, or else get sent home from school or work. A global drive buoyed by the Black Lives Matter movement gave rise to a major pandemic-era trend of beauty videos celebrating natural hair.
The push did not go unnoticed: French lawmakers last year voted to ban discrimination based on hair texture, while several US states have passed similar legislation. Tunisia has no such initiative, so women entrepreneurs are leading the change.
In 2021, Sirine Cherif cofounded Kamaana — or “as I am” — Tunisia’s first homegrown haircare brand dedicated to curly locks. “When we started, we were the only specialised brand on the market,” she said. “A few months later, there was a domino effect: bigger brands launched their own curly-hair lines.”
And today, Tunisian companies such as Zynia and Lilas Cosmetics have joined the growing industry. For Cherif, the boom is both a lucrative business opportunity and a marker of profound social change.
“We are proud to have encouraged people to be themselves, to resist this societal pressure and embrace their natural hair,” she said. Her company has seen 42% annual growth since its founding, she said, adding: “We want to start a curl revolution.”
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Fashion
US ETR dips to 9.4% as blanket 10% tariff replaces IEEPA levies: Fitch
If the US administration imposes a 15-per cent levy, the US ETR would rise to 11.3 per cent.
President Donald Trump reinstated tariffs immediately following the US Supreme Court’s February 20 ruling that invalidated the reciprocal tariffs imposed under the International Emergency Economic Powers Act (IEEPA). The new blanket 10-per cent tariff rate is authorised under Section 122 of the Trade Act of 1974 and expires in 150 days unless extended by Congress.
The 10-per cent blanket reciprocal tariff imposed by the US on most trading partners has reduced the US effective tariff rate (ETR) to 9.4 per cent from 12.7 per cent, Fitch Ratings said.
If a 15-per cent levy is imposed, the ETR would rise to 11.3 per cent.
China has the highest ETR among trading partners, followed by Vietnam, Japan and Brazil.
China’s ETR is around 19 per cent from 29 per cent earlier.
Section 122 permits a maximum rate of 15 per cent but does not allow for tariff adjustments for individual countries.
Prior to the court decision, China was subject to two reciprocal tariffs: a fentanyl tariff of 10 per cent that applied to all imports and a 10-per cent reciprocal tariff on an import base subject to carveouts. The two tariffs have been consolidated into the 10-per cent blanket tariff, reducing China’s ETR to around 19 per cent from 29 per cent, Fitch said in a release.
China still has the highest ETR among major trading partners, followed by Vietnam, Japan and Brazil. Of the United States’ 31 largest trading partners, 26 will see their ETRs decline. Brazil benefits the most, with its ETR decreasing by 18 percentage points (pp) to 11 per cent from 29 per cent.
ETRs for most countries largely remain unchanged following the switch in tariff regimes, and no country will see an increase in its ETR if the Section 122 tariff rate remains at 10 per cent.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
US producer price index for final demand up 0.5% in Jan 2026
Unadjusted, it rose by 2.9 per cent for the 12 months ended January 2026.
Prices for final demand goods declined by 0.3 per cent, the largest decrease since falling 0.7 per cent in March 2025.
The seasonally-adjusted US producer price index (PPI) for final demand rose by 0.5 per cent in January.
Unadjusted, it rose by 2.9 per cent for the 12 months ended January 2026.
Prices for final demand goods declined by 0.3 per cent, the largest decrease since falling 0.7 per cent in March 2025.
Leading the January decline, the index for final demand energy dropped by 2.7 per cent.
Leading the January decline, the index for final demand energy dropped by 2.7 per cent.
The index for final demand less food, energy and trade services moved up by 0.3 per cent in January, the ninth consecutive increase. For the 12 months ended in January, such prices rose by 3.4 per cent, a BLS release said.
The index for final demand goods less food and energy advanced by 0.7 per cent in the month.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
Fashion
Ind-Ra expects India’s apparel retail revenues to grow 9% YoY in FY26
Ind-Ra expects sector revenues to grow around 9 per cent year on year (YoY) in FY26 and 10.5 per cent YoY in FY27 following uneven and subdued growth through FY24 and early FY25; the growth in FY25 was 8 per cent YoY.
Ind-Ra expects India’s apparel retail sector revenues to grow around 9 per cent YoY in FY26 and 10.5 per cent YoY in FY27 following uneven and subdued growth through FY24 and early FY25.
Premium, branded and ethnic players are expected to see steadier, high single-digit growth trends.
Ind-Ra feels value retailers will outperform other segments within apparel, with robust revenue growth.
Ind-Ra feels value retailers will outperform other segments within apparel, with robust revenue growth through healthy same store sales growth and rapid store additions, albeit at a lower profitability.
Healthy growth in operating profit coupled with strong inventory turns is expected to result in value retailers demonstrating stronger-than-industry return indicators and credit metrics.
Premium, branded and ethnic players are expected to see steadier, high single-digit growth trends as consumer confidence rebuilds with a better spread out wedding calendar than in FY26 and early signs of normalisation seen in the first nine months of FY26.
Listed apparel retail players from Ind-Ra’s sample set reported revenue growth of around 10 per cent YoY in these nine months as the government’s consumption push through lower taxation and mild inflation resulted in higher disposable income and improved affordability.
The operating profit margins also improved to 15.6 per cent in the nine months compared to 15.2 per cent in FY25 due to various cost optimisation measures adopted by companies.
Organised retailers are pivoting from aggressive expansion to productivity-led growth. After elevated store additions in FY24-FY25, Indian apparel retailers are moderating store roll-outs, sharpening site selection, right-sizing formats and targeting faster ramp-ups of recent openings, with omni-channel execution and scalable franchise models enhancing reach and capital efficiency, Ins-Ra said in a press note.
It expects store additions to ease to nearly 7 per cent YoY in FY26 and 6 per cent YoY in FY27, even as retail area continues to rise by 9 per cent YoY in FY26 and by 9.5 per cent YoY in FY27, reflecting larger average store sizes and assortments designed to lift footfalls, average transaction values and sales per square foot.
Value and luxury segments are set to lead sector performance. Value formats benefit from GST rationalisation at lower price points, improved affordability, and rising private-label penetration, while luxury gains from a widening affluent base and deeper global-brand access.
Fast fashion continues to capture Gen-Z-led, content-driven demand. Casual and athleisure remain ahead of ethnic-casual and formal wear, in line with comfort- and lifestyle-led dressing trends.
Ind-Ra expects profitability to improve gradually as cost optimisation, better sourcing/mix, disciplined advertising and marketing promotions, and operating leverage offset residual pressures from expansion and fixed costs.
The working capital cycle for value retailers is likely to improve YoY in FY27, due to higher inventory turns and improved store level operating metrics.
Overall, as the consumption upturn broadens and retailers prioritise productivity over pace, Ind-Ra expects a stable, sustainable improvement in revenues and operating metrics for organised apparel retailers over FY26–FY27.
The luxury segment is also expected to benefit from an increase in target customer segment through widening affluent base and deeper global-brand access.
Mid-premium and several incumbent retailers witnessed slower growth in FY25, due to entry price mix-shifts and loss of market share to value retailers. This, coupled with investments in store format revamps, has stressed their margin profiles. Profitability pressures and a dip in inventory turns have slightly weakened credit metrics for segment players.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)
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