When I ask influencer chef Jon Kung to name the purchase they regret most, there’s no deliberation. “In my early twenties, I bought this used SMEG fridge,” the 42-year-old Chinese American TikTok creator tells me. “It’s got this giant British flag on it, and I still have it. I’ve stuck Sex Pistols, Ozzy Osbourne, and Spice Girls stickers on the sides to try to make it a little better.”

It’s become a conversation piece at the dinner parties Kung hosts at home. Every holiday season, Kung whips up their Chinese takeout feast; it’s a seven-course spread that maps their upbringing across Los Angeles, Hong Kong, Toronto, and Detroit—mapo tofu, pumpkin and lotus root curry, superior stock wonton noodle soup, crab rangoons, Balinese crab fried rice, mushroom lo mein, and, for the grand finale, Cantonese roast duck with cherry duck sauce. And, obviously, dessert.

That layered, third-culture palate is exactly what has made Kung one of the most compelling food personalities of his generation, with over 2 million online followers. (They also published a cookbook, Kung Food, with over 100 recipes.) Whether they’re demystifying global ingredients for a Western audience or sharing meal prep tips, Kung’s perspective remains the same: good food should feel like home.

I caught up with Jon Kung over Zoom to talk about their favorite cooking techniques and kitchen gear.

Wash Your Rice

When I ask Kung what they wish they had that doesn’t already exist, they don’t hesitate: “A rice cooker that also washes your rice.”

“It’s so important to wash your rice, especially if you’re making Asian rice. Italians don’t wash their rice because they need that starch for risotto, but in almost any other culture, you have to wash your rice. Also, I don’t think people know there are bug eggs in rice. They’re called rice weevils, and unless you’re buying that super expensive prewashed rice, there are lots of bugs in rice.”

For now, you’ll need to wash your rice by hand, but if you need a rice cooker, King likes the same Japanese rice cookers the WIRED Reviews team swears by: “Zojirushi rice cookers are fantastic, specifically the ones that have pressure options, because they keep rice fresh for so long.”

Drip Coffee Done Right

“I switch between a drip coffee and an Americano when I make it for myself,” says Kung. “I used to do a Chemex pour-over, but recently I switched to the super automatic Terra Kaffe. It’s kind of awesome.” (Our reviewers also really like the Terra Kaffe.)

Skip the Combination Pans

“Combination pans—the ones that are a mix between nonstick and stainless steel—just end up being garbage versions for both jobs,” says Kung. “I would rather people just get one ceramic nonstick pan and one stainless steel pan.”

When anthropology researcher Ashley McDermott was doing fieldwork in Kyrgyzstan a few years ago, she says many people voiced the same concern: Children were losing touch with their indigenous language. The Central Asian country of 7 million people was under Russian control for a century until 1991, but Kyrgyz (pronounced kur-giz) survived and remains widely spoken among adults.

McDermott, a doctoral student at the University of Michigan, says she also heard that some kids in rural villages where Kyrgyz dominated had spontaneously learned to speak Russian. The adults largely blamed a singular force: YouTube.

McDermott and a team of five researchers across four universities in the US and Kyrgyzstan have released new research they believe proves the fears about YouTube’s influence are valid. The group simulated user behavior on YouTube and collected nearly 11,000 unique search results and video recommendations.

What they found is that Kyrgyz-language searches for popular kid interests such as cartoons, fairy tales, and mermaids often did not yield content in Kyrgyz. Even after watching 10 children’s videos featuring Kyrgyz speech to demonstrate a strong desire for it, the simulated users received fewer Kyrgyz-language recommendations for what to watch next than, surprisingly, bots showing no language preference at all. The findings show YouTube prioritizes Russian-language content over Kyrgyz-language videos, especially when searching or browsing children’s topics, according to the researchers.

“Kyrgyz children are algorithmically constructed as audiences for Russian content,” Nel Escher, a coauthor who is a postdoctoral scholar at UC Berkeley, said during a presentation at the school last week. “There is no good way to be a Kyrgyz-speaking kid on YouTube.”

McDermott recalls one frustrated Kyrgyzstani mother in 2023 explaining that she paid the internet bill a day late each month to regularly have one day without internet and, thus, YouTube at home.

YouTube, which has “committed to amplifying indigenous voices,” did not respond to WIRED’s requests for comment. The researchers are attempting to meet with YouTube’s parental controls team to discuss the potential for language filters, according to Escher.

The researchers say their work is the latest to show how online platforms can reinforce colonial culture and influence offline behavior. Under Soviet control, people in Kyrgyzstan had to learn Russian to succeed. Today, many adults are fluent in both Russian and Kyrgyz, with Russian remaining important for commerce. Kids are required to learn at least some Kyrgyz in school. But many spend several hours a day online, and watching YouTube is the leading activity, McDermott says. Quoting from Russian language videos is common, whether creators’ refrains like “Let’s do a challenge,” adaptations of American words such as “cringe,” or parroting accents and syntax.

In one of the researchers’ experiments, they searched for several subjects which are spelled the same in Russian and Kyrgyz, including Harry Potter and Minecraft. The results were predominantly Russian. Overall, just 2.7 percent of the videos the research team analyzed appeared to even include ethnically Kyrgyz people.

YouTube “socializes youth to view Russian as the default language of entertainment and technology and to view Kyrgyz as uninteresting,” the researchers wrote in a self-published paper accepted to a social computing conference scheduled for October.

The researchers say there is ample Kyrgyz-language children’s content for YouTube to promote. In 2024, the 35th-most viewed channel on YouTube across the world was D Billions, a Kyrgyzstan-based children-focused content studio with a dedicated Kyrgyz-language channel that has nearly 1 million subscribers.