Fashion
On runs in Europe, sprints in Asia
Published
November 19, 2025
On has found a new playing field in Asia. In the third quarter of 2025, when its sales rose by nearly 25% year on year (35% at constant exchange rates) to net revenue of 794 million Swiss francs (860 million euros), sales in the Asia-Pacific region surged. They reached 145 million Swiss francs for the quarter, an increase of 109% at constant exchange rates, more than doubling to account for almost 20% of the Swiss sports brand’s total revenue.
In a conversation with financial analysts, the company noted that the opening of the Ginza flagship in Tokyo showcased the strength of this strategy, generating the highest monthly sales in the brand’s global network. For the group, scaling up in the region is strategic.
“Japan set the tone, but the Asia-Pacific region has shown the scale of what’s possible,” explained Martin Hoffmann, the company’s chief executive and chief financial officer.
“We’re connecting with a new generation of younger, deeply design-conscious customers, proving the worldwide appetite for On’s premium, performance-led approach. What was once a new frontier has become a major engine for the brand.”
The brand is expanding into new markets and recently opened its first two stores in South Korea, in Seoul at The Hyundai Seoul department store and at Lotte World Mall Jamsil. It also intends to build momentum in Greater China.
This points to a rapid rebalancing between the company’s regions worldwide. In the quarter, the Americas remained the brand’s largest market, with 436 million Swiss francs, up 10.3% (21% at constant exchange rates). The Europe-Middle East-Africa (EMEA) region generated 213 million Swiss francs, an increase of 29% (+33.0% at constant exchange rates).
“Europe, the Middle East and Africa delivered an exceptional quarter… We are seeing incredible demand in the UK, which has firmly established itself as one of our largest global markets, tremendous momentum in newer markets such as France and Italy, and a sustained re-acceleration of growth in the German-speaking region,” the chief executive told analysts.
He also highlighted the significant contribution of the Champs-Élysées store in Paris to the brand’s appeal. The brand will apply the same strategy in Spain, with the opening this weekend of a flagship store in Madrid, on Calle Serrano.
Direct sales rose sharply to 315 million Swiss francs, up 28% on the same period a year earlier. The wholesale channel posted sales of 480 million Swiss francs, up 23%. Above all, On’s management emphasises its strategy of positioning On in the premium segment of the sports-lifestyle market. Despite an inflationary environment, price increases in the key U.S. market have not dented demand. According to management, this validates the brand’s pricing power. Meanwhile, the company posted a record gross margin of 65.7% for the quarter, up 510 basis points year on year.

Another important takeaway for the Swiss brand is that it no longer relies solely on its footwear range, which is regularly refreshed with new models. By product category, third-quarter footwear sales totalled 731 million Swiss francs, up 21.1% (+30.4% at constant exchange rates). Apparel generated 50 million Swiss francs, up 87% (+100.2% at constant exchange rates), and accessories 13.0 million Swiss francs, up 145% (+160.8%).
Granted, apparel still represents a small share of On’s performance. But the outlook is encouraging for its chief executive: “We are not building apparel as a complement to our footwear business, but as a business within the business, serving the same communities, but with a unique product offering and customer experience. The result is that apparel generates high-value incremental growth across all our channels.” It remains to be seen whether collaborations with Zendaya or Burna Boy will boost its lifestyle sales.
Net income came to 119 million Swiss francs, up 290% year on year, for a net margin of 15% versus 4.8%. For the first nine months of the year, sales reached 2.270 billion Swiss francs, compared with 1.712 billion a year earlier, an increase of 33% (+37% at constant exchange rates). Net income declined to 135 million Swiss francs (compared with 153 million in 2024), while adjusted EBITDA reached 436 million Swiss francs (+51%) for a margin of 19% (compared with 17%).
On has raised its forecasts for 2025: constant-currency sales growth is now expected to increase by 34%, corresponding to revenue of around 2.98 billion Swiss francs. Gross margin is now targeted at “around 62.5%” and adjusted EBITDA margin above 18%.
It should be noted that the decline in net income over nine months is a reminder that growth is also accompanied by challenges related to currency effects, logistics costs and strategic investments.
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Fashion
L.L. Bean promotes Greg Elder to CEO
Published
January 12, 2026
L.L. Bean announced on Friday the promotion of company veteran Greg Elder to the role of president and chief executive officer.
Elder succeeds Stephen Smith, who will depart the American heritage apparel company after ten years as CEO.
Elder will transition into his new role as CEO during the first quarter, with Smith continuing to serve on the board as an adviser until March.
Joining L.L. Bean in 2007, Elder has held several leadership positions at the company, including chief retail officer, his most recent post.
Prior to that, he held leadership roles at Eddie Bauer and Dayton Hudson Corporation, now known as Target. Elder is also a member of the Retail Industry Leaders Association.
“We were deliberate in finding a leader who will continue to honor our brand heritage while positioning us for the next era of growth,” Shawn Gorman, chairman of the board of L.L. Bean said in a statement. “Greg rose to the top because of his deep respect for our history, incredible knowledge of our business, strong track record of results and clear vision for the future.”
Elder will be the Freeport, Maine-based company’s fifth CEO in its 114-year history.
“What makes L.L.Bean truly special is its people and purpose. I’m proud to take on this responsibility alongside such a committed and talented team, and I’m grateful for the trust of the Bean family and our board as we begin this next chapter together,” said Elder.
“I’m also thankful for the past 10 years of leadership and friendship from Stephen Smith, who has led the company with heart and conviction through some particularly challenging seasons.
“This brand has been part of my life for many years, and it has deep personal meaning for me to accept this role. Our heritage, our connection to the outdoors and our culture of service and craftsmanship are powerful foundations. At the same time, we have an opportunity and a responsibility to keep evolving: to sharpen our product focus, deepen our connection with customers and ensure L.L.Bean remains relevant and inspiring for the next generation.”
Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Fashion
SFDA unveils finalists for inaugural New Wave Fashion Awards
Published
January 12, 2026
The SFDA Creative Talent Program announced on Friday the finalists of the inaugural New Wave Fashion Awards.
After three months of open submissions and professional review, six finalists were selected: Chen Sifan by Sifan Chen, Angus Chiang by Angus Chiang, Moto Guo by Moto Guo and Kinder Huang, 8ON8 by Li Gong, Mayali by Maya Li, and Feng Chen Wang by Feng Chen Wang.
Conceived as a long-term talent incubation initiative rather than a one-off competition, the New Wave Fashion Awards positions itself as a platform for identifying and cultivating designers with multi-dimensional capabilities spanning product, aesthetics, narrative, and brand structure.
The framework is designed to mirror the responsibilities of a modern creative director, offering an alternative to traditional fashion awards that focus primarily on runway collections.
“We launched this creative talent support program to build a long-term, systematic, and future-oriented training mechanism to help China’s new generation of creative talents achieve leaps in continuous practice and move towards a clearer and more internationally-oriented development direction,” said Madame LV, EVP of SFDA and secretary-general of Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee.
The New Wave Fashion Awards will culminate during AW26 Shanghai Fashion Week in late March. The six shortlisted designers will present comprehensive brand expressions on site, translating their concepts into immersive spatial experiences.
These presentations will be evaluated by a jury with international perspective and industry authority, drawing from global fashion media, retail and brand operations, as well as the public.
Copyright © 2026 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
Fashion
The sneaker boom had a long run. Now some analysts say it’s over
By
Bloomberg
Published
January 11, 2026
For nearly two decades, sports brands benefited as people swapped out dress shoes for sneakers when heading everywhere from the airport to fancy restaurants and even the office.
That’s been a boon for Adidas AG, Nike Inc. and Puma SE, which capitalized on consumers’ changing tastes by serving up snazzy, comfy kicks that people wanted to wear on and off the playing field. The rising demand for sports shoes also underpinned the rapid growth of challengers like Hoka and On Holding AG, which emerged in the wake of the financial crisis and quickly became popular brands.
Now the future of that longstanding sneaker boom is being called into question, most notably by Bank of America analysts led by Thierry Cota. They rocked the footwear world last week with a 61-page analysis concluding that the growth prospects for these sports brands are rapidly dimming.
They argue that the sporting goods sector had enjoyed a 20-year “upcycle” that lifted sneakers from less than a quarter of world footwear sales to at least a half — a trend that culminated during the Covid pandemic, when millions of people were suddenly working from home. “With this structural shift largely complete, prospects for future revenue growth are now significantly reduced,” the analysts said.
They accompanied that view with a rare “double downgrade” of Adidas, abandoning their “buy” rating and declaring the stock one of the least attractive in the industry.
Their contention that the sneaker boom has passed its peak prompted a backlash from skeptics who say the casual footwear trend has room to run. Longtime industry analyst Matt Powell, an adviser at consulting firm Spurwink River, conveyed that sentiment on LinkedIn, where he posted a Barron’s article about the research and commented: “C’mon, man! No evidence of this.”
Adidas shares plunged as much as 7.6% in response to the downgrade on Tuesday, before recovering part of those losses by the end of the week.
Sneakers now make up about 60% of footwear sales in the US, according to Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana in New York. Sport shoes have won over the population as part of a wider societal push toward comfort, health and wellness, priorities that probably aren’t going to disappear anytime soon, she said. The US sneaker category grew 4% last year through November, while the fashion category dropped 3%, she added.
“The sneaker business is larger than ever,” she said. “I wouldn’t even call casualization a trend — it’s just a key consumer preference.”
Yet the sneaker makers have run into headwinds since the pandemic as they sometimes failed to keep up with shoppers’ fickle tastes, saw sales cool particularly in China, and faced the threat of US tariffs. Shares of Adidas are down by almost a third in the past year, and even On Holding’s stock is down by more than 10% in the period, despite strong revenue growth.
“We don’t believe the casualization trend is over — rather, it has stabilized, with wardrobes now more balanced,” said Poonam Goyal, an analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence.
“The category has moved beyond the pandemic-driven demand spike and is now operating in a more normalized environment.”
There are signs that sneakers are bleeding into the dress shoe category. In 2025, the top-traded loafer on Stockx, an online resale platform, was the New Balance 1906L, which looks like the offspring of a preppy boat shoe and a marathon trainer. It’s also common these days to see movie stars and fashion influencers donning spiffed-up, expensive versions of trainers, often in collaboration with luxury brands like Gucci and Moncler.
The analysts at Bank of America didn’t suggest that people are going to ditch their sneakers for patent leather oxfords anytime soon. Rather, they indicated that sporting goods — after booming during the pandemic — have since mid-2023 been growing at a slower-than-average pace compared with the past couple of decades.
While that typically could mean the industry is poised to take off again, no big rebound is apparent, the analysts argued. They cited data ranging from recent credit card purchases to sluggish sales figures from Asian footwear and apparel suppliers to less-than-bullish commentary from industry leaders regarding the outlook for 2026.
If the sporting goods industry grew by an average of about 9% a year since 2007, as millions of people traded in dress shoes for sneakers, the future annual expansion may only be about 4% or 5%, they suggested.
Their optimistic take is that the industry is in a prolonged slump because of consumers fearing economic conditions and recent stumbles at Nike. That could mean that the sneaker boom still has legs and will resurge as early as 2027.
“The alternative is much worse and more likely, in our view,” the Bank of America analysts added. “The emergence of a new, less favorable long-term industry paradigm.”
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