Fashion
Polopiqué and StampDyeing suspend production units in Portugal
Published
September 1, 2025
Polopiqué and StampDyeing – Tinturaria, Estamparia e Finamentos, located in Guimarães, Santo Tirso, and Vila Nova de Famalicão, are announcing the suspension of some of their production units in Portugal.
The Polopiqué group alone, which exports to more than 47 countries around the world, with important markets in Angola, Brazil, the United States, Europe, and the Middle East, is closing two factories that are already insolvent and laying off 280 workers, with two more units undergoing restructuring, which may well increase the number of redundancies. Chinese online platforms such as Shein and Temu are being blamed for the decline of the Portuguese textile industry.
According to MaisGuimarães (+G), Têxteis J.F. Almeida S.A, Polopiqué Comércio e Indústria de Confeções, S.A, Polopiqué – Acabamentos Têxteis, S.A, and Stampdyeing, Serviços, Lda have already filed applications for Special Revitalization Processes (PER) with the courts throughout August. The four companies are part of Portuguese textile giants with branches throughout the Ave Valley (Guimarães, Famalicão, and Santo Tirso) that directly employ around two thousand people. In the case of J.F. Almeida, only the credit institutions are affected by a process that aims to reschedule debt in the face of cash flow difficulties, but at Polopiqué there are plans to make almost 300 redundancies.
Also according to +G, Polopiqué Comércio e Indústria de Confeções, with 54.5 million euros in debt, is complaining of difficulties in meeting its commitments. We also remember the turnover of 81.1 million euros in 2024, 19.5% more than in the same period last year, and the net profit of 1.3 million euros, 35.9% more than in 2023.
According to ECO, the group, which has around 800 employees who are expected to be cut in half, has started a restructuring plan that includes revitalization plans and the insolvency of business units.
According to the chairman of the board, Luís Guimarães, the textile group “will maintain the strategic and most profitable activities in its value chain, focusing on areas where it has greater differentiation, control, and operational return. In this way, it will maintain an activity of excellence in the areas of design, logistics and sales, textile finishing, and yarn production,” he told ECO, guaranteeing in a statement that “the restructuring will be conducted with a total sense of social responsibility”.
“The group will move forward with a set of measures aimed at simplifying processes, optimizing the value chain, and strengthening the economic and environmental sustainability of its operations,” it continues, stressing that the “concentration of production capacity in the units with the highest operational performance and flexibility, closing the garment manufacturing and fabric weaving units,” the statement points out.
For its part, StampDyeing, part of the Mabera – Coelima Group, which currently exports around 25% of its production to the US and around 70% to the European market, has not paid salaries for two months to around 100 workers, including vacation pay. Dâmaso Lobo, the administrator of the group that owns the Vimaranense dyeing and printing plant, said that he will meet with the affected employees this Monday, September 1. “With the gas cut off since then, they continue to work 8 hours a day without producing anything,” confirms AbrilAbril.
Also according to the information space, linked to Abril values, which follows national and international news, Dâmaso Lobo had already committed himself, in a meeting with the Textile Union of Minho and Trás-os-Montes (affiliated to the CGTP-IN), to paying off the debts he owes to the affected workers, but so far he has failed to pay the salaries at StampDyeing.
Nevertheless, Coelima’s turnover grew by 15% in 2024, reaching results of 8.5 million euros, with even better expectations for 2025, as Dâmaso Lobo himself confirmed to PortugalTêxtil, which acquired the historic textile company in 2021.
“At Coelima there was talk of profits, but at the expense of StampDyeing. Here we have no wages and no future,” lamented a worker to the newspaper MaisGuimarães, in one of the many protests that took place in August, the month in which a chemical supplier filed for insolvency against the company on the first day, due to lack of payments.
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Published
October 18, 2025
Recognised as a protected geographical indication in France, Dentelle de Calais-Caudry says it has begun the process of becoming a European geographical indication to better protect its identity against low-grade counterfeits.
From December 1, the European Union will introduce a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143, which now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across its Member States.
Crucially, Europe is now extending a protection regime to artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, which was previously reserved for agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits.
“The Dentelliers de Calais-Caudry have already applied to the INPI, which is responsible for forwarding their application to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office), so that their geographical indication can be recognised throughout the European Union”, say the Calais and Caudry lacemakers.
Dentelle de Calais-Caudry became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. It took the local industry’s representatives five years to achieve this goal, which aims to distinguish and protect know-how that is more than two centuries old, and relies on the use of imposing, complex Leavers looms, which lend their name to the lace they produce. In 1958, the “Dentelle de Calais” label was launched, and in 2015 it became “Dentelle de Calais-Caudry”, to include manufacturers from the Caudry area.
“Regularly confronted with very poor-quality counterfeits that damage their image and sales, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry will, by obtaining this European geographical indication, benefit from legal protection across the 27 countries of the Union”, says the label, which hopes that “this guarantee of authenticity and quality, which will reassure all designers, stylists and lovers of Calais-Caudry lace, will help safeguard this know-how, these ‘passion’ trades, and accelerate international development.”
Today, Calais-Caudry lace is produced in Calais by Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, which also operates in Caudry. The town is also home to Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss.
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The new directive aims to cut waste, reduce environmental damage, and strengthen the EU’s economic resilience by driving sustainable innovation and decreasing reliance on raw materials. It aligns with the EU’s Competitiveness Compass and Strategic Agenda for 2024–29, European Commission said in a press release.
The European Union’s revised Waste Framework Directive came into effect yesterday, establishing unified rules for EPR in textiles and setting binding targets to reduce food waste.
Aimed at cutting waste and boosting circularity, it requires Member States to set up EPR schemes, reduce food waste by up to 30 per cent by 2030, and promote eco-modulated fees, and sustainable design.
The EU’s textile and clothing industry remains an economic powerhouse, generating €170 billion (~$198.9 billion) in 2023 and employing 1.3 million people across nearly 197,000 companies. Yet, it is also one of the most resource-intensive sectors, ranking third in water and land use impact and fifth in raw material use and greenhouse gas emissions. In 2019 alone, the EU generated 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste, with only one-fifth separately collected for reuse or recycling.
To address these challenges, the revised directive introduces two major sets of measures to promote circularity and competitiveness:
- Under mandatory EPR schemes, each Member State must establish a system requiring producers of textiles and footwear to pay fees for every product placed on the market. These funds will finance collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal operations. The fees will also support consumer awareness campaigns and R&D in sustainable design and waste prevention. EPR fees will vary according to sustainability criteria under the Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)—a principle known as eco-modulation. Producers will pay less for durable, recyclable, and eco-friendly products, incentivising circular design.
- The directive also sets new rules for managing used textiles, ensuring that all separately collected textiles are classified as waste to prevent false reuse labelling and illegal exports. Unsorted textile waste will fall under the Waste Shipment Regulation.
Member States have 20 months to transpose the directive into national law and 30 months to set up their textile and footwear EPR schemes. Competent authorities must be designated by January 17, 2026, and updated food waste prevention plans finalised by October 17, 2027.
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