Fashion
Elsewhere in LFW: Rory William Docherty, AK/OK Anamika Khanna
Published
September 23, 2025
Two designers with careers on slow but steady boils, both working far distant from London -Rory William Docherty and Anamika Khanna from India- helped make exotic and inspiring additions to the last day of London Fashion Week.
Rory William Docherty: Rock Pools and Sea Anemones
One of London’s most beautiful debuts was by Rory William Docherty, who has previously shown down under in Australia and New Zealand.
Of Scottish origin, Rory has divided his time between the UK and down under over the last 20 years, though it was a return to nature in New Zealand which provided the artistic impetus to this slow fashion collection.
The finest looks were his own bold blotchy abstract prints seen in some great dresses, elongated jackets, billowing jumpsuits and little skirts. Though the prints turned out to be culled from nature.
“They were based around a camping trip. That type of reset you need after a season. When I escape into nature and need air. So, I was looking at the landscape – and at rock pools,” explained Docherty.
Looking at nature also led to incorporating sea anemones growing on rocks as jewelry. Hand blown black glass beads seen on super sandals and bag straps. Even blown up into giant bags or exploded into a patent leather sculptural skirt.
Rory’s other explosion was the collar, which splayed out like a puritan on acid, and sometimes grew into a hood. The bold shapes, arty sense of volume and languid mood meant that the clothes recalled the great Japanese designers who have shown in Paris. That said, this was a powerful personal statement by Docherty, a designer and brand on a sure upward curve.
“Knowing that no one here would have heard of me before I thought it was really important to focus on my signature looks, and DNA,” explained 46-year-old Docherty. A strategy which this collection clearly showed had worked.
AK/OK Anamika Khanna: Toy synergy
To Hamley’s mid-afternoon Monday to catch the runway debut of the ready-to-wear collection AK/OK Anamika Khanna, a new line that debuted in Saks last year.
Khanna has been presenting couture collections for two decades in India, but this marked the first Western unveiling of her fresh RTW division AK/OK Anamika Khanna.
The project is bankrolled by the giant Indian conglomerate of Reliance, which also acquired Hamleys in February for some £70 million.
Using the synergy, Reliance closed off the upper floors of Hamley’s, as the cast prowled around the toy store’s racetrack floor, amid Star Wars figurines, Marvin’s Magic lights and Gravity Defying mini drones.
On each seat sat a gift of an intriguing cloth emblem, hand embroidered for 20 hours, which set the scene. For this was a collection all about ravishing adornment.
Opening with ivory silk jackets, chiffon shirts and silk dhotis finished with floral prints; or saucy corsets embellished with fabric flowers. Most looks anchored by very cool lace boxing boots.
Showing plenty of range, she cut striking suits and redingotes in silvery silks finished with metallic embroidery or chain mail patches. Adding the odd metallic finish to jeans to toughen the look.
To Western eyes, Indian designers can often come across as a tad demure. Not Anamika, whose love of transparency was apparent.
Emphasizing a whole boudoir mood, with bloomers, sheer chiffon blouses, cami-knickers and silver sequin bras. Amanika’s girls clearly want to have lots of fun, including Bollywood meg star Sonam Kappor, who sat front row. Hopefully her 34.3 million followers will soon she her in this collection, a definite hit from first to last look.
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Fashion
ICE cotton slips as weak US stocks, grains pressure market
ICE December cotton futures settled at 64.54 cents per pound, down 0.69 cents.
ICE cotton futures declined amid weakness in US stocks and grains, with traders awaiting the USDA’s supply and demand report due on November 14, 2025.
Technology and AI-related stock losses and uncertainty around President Trump’s tariff policies further dampened sentiment.
Brazil’s October cotton exports rose 5 per cent year-on-year, while ICE deliverable inventories remained steady at 13,749 bales.
Market analysts noted that the fall in the stock market was the primary driver behind the decline. Weakness in grain prices added further pressure on cotton values. US stocks closed lower on Thursday, extending losses from earlier in the week. Technology and AI-related stocks led the declines due to concerns about overvaluation and economic uncertainty.
The US Supreme Court heard arguments challenging President Trump’s broad tariff policies, heightening global trade concerns. US Trade Representative Greer stated that some plaintiffs could receive refunds if the court rules against the tariffs, subject to Treasury’s scheduling.
CBOT soybean futures fell sharply as optimism over renewed demand weakened following signs of easing trade tensions.
Traders are now focused on the USDA’s delayed monthly supply and demand report, scheduled for release on November 14, 2025. Despite the ongoing US government shutdown, the USDA confirmed it is collecting survey data for upcoming crop yield reports.
Brazil’s cotton exports totalled 293,928.51 tons in October, up 5 per cent year-on-year, with daily shipments averaging 13,360.39 tons, also up 5 per cent.
ICE data showed deliverable No. 2 cotton futures inventory unchanged at 13,749 bales as of November 05, 2025.
This morning (Indian Standard Time), ICE cotton for December 2025 traded at 64.66 cents per pound (up 0.12 cent), cash cotton at 62.04 cents (down 0.69 cent), the March 2026 contract at 65.90 cents (up 0.13 cent), the May 2026 contract at 67.11 cents (up 0.13 cent), the July 2026 contract at 68.07 cents (unchanged), and the October 2026 contract at 68.08 cents (down 0.51 cent). A few contracts remained at their previous closing levels, with no trading recorded so far today.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KUL)
Fashion
China retains lead as South Korea’s top textile supplier
Fashion
Mango opens first store in Aberdeen, ninth in Scotland
Published
November 7, 2025
Global fashion retailer Mango has opened its first store in Aberdeen at the Union Square shopping centre, creating 20 new jobs. It’s the ninth store in Scotland, as Mango looks to strengthen its presence there.
Mango also said the opening forms part of its ongoing ambitious expansion strategy, which aims to open a further 500 stores globally between 2023 and 2026, including 20 in the UK this year
The 4,844 sq ft store features the brand’s now-standard New Med design concept, inspired by the brand’s Mediterranean heritage and culture, alongside Mango’s latest womenswear collection, including clothing, footwear and accessories.
This latest opening forms part of Mango’s 2024-2026 strategic plan, which aims to drive sales and store expansion, including an ambitious roadmap to expand Mango’s store presence across the UK, “a priority growth market”.
Fiona Cullen, International Regional director for the UK & Ireland, said: “Our new Mango Woman store in Aberdeen is a confident step forward for Mango, building on the strong progress we have made over the last year to broaden the appeal of Mango to even more customers across the UK. Aberdeen is the perfect new home to introduce our womenswear collection to the more Scottish customers, in a store format that truly represents the Mediterranean soul of our brand.”
The expansion plan builds on Mango’s strong performance. In July the Spanish brand reported global turnover of €1.73 billion (£1.52 billion) inforthe first half of 2025, up 12% year on year (14% at constant exchange rates). It noted the growth was driven by “the popularity of its collections and new store openings”.
Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.
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