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Europe’s textile waste management system under critical strain: BCG

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Europe’s textile waste management system under critical strain: BCG



The backbone of Europe’s textile waste management system, its collection and sorting infrastructure, is under critical strain, according to a recent report by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG).

Several major players are halting operations or going bankrupt, triggering a breakdown in the system, the report, titled ‘Textile Waste at a Tipping Point: Unlocking Europe’s Circular Potential’, said.

In France, social enterprise Le Relais stopped all textile collection in mid-2025 and began unloading unsorted waste outside major retailers to protest underfunding. Without emergency support, it warned it would not survive beyond year-end.

Europe’s collection of textile waste and sorting infrastructure is under critical strain, according to a Boston Consulting Group report.
Several major players are halting operations or going bankrupt, triggering a breakdown in the system, it noted.
The main reason is a funding gap: eco-organisations and public authorities are not paying enough per tonne collected to cover operational costs.

Smaller collectors are also closing quietly. In Germany, two major collectors, SOEX and Texaid, have filed for insolvency respectively in October 2024 and June 2025 due to collapsing export markets and rising sorting costs.

In the United Kingdom, closures and layoffs have hit textile recyclers, which include Textile Recycling International, which entered administration in early 2024. The Textile Recycling Association has warned of a ‘sector-wide collapse’ as processing capacity disappears and resale prices plummet.

At the heart of this collapse is a funding gap: eco-organisations and public authorities are not paying enough per tonne collected to cover operational costs. Meanwhile, saturated second-hand markets, fast-fashion waste and stricter export conditions are all compounding the pressure.

Without urgent intervention, Europe’s textile circularity ambitions risk unravelling, the report cautions.

In Europe, only around 1 per cent of textile waste is recycled into new textiles. The rest is either reused through second-hand markets, downcycled into lower-value applications like rags or insulation, processed into solid recovered fuel (SRF) or sent to landfill or incineration.

Landfilling is expected to decline sharply by 2035—from 26 per cent of total textile waste in 2024 to 17 per cent in 2035—driven by regulatory and environmental pressure. The EU Landfill Directive mandates that municipal waste landfilling fall below 10 per cent by 2035, prompting many countries to implement landfill taxes and bans on specific products.

Reuse is the most sustainable option and has been enabled by charity networks, resale platforms, and exports. Yet the ecosystem is under pressure and the second-hand textile market in Europe is stalling slightly, driven by the rise of ultra-fast fashion and the saturation of traditional export channels, the report notes.

As resale prices fall and collection costs rise, operators are left with declining margins and increasing volumes of low-quality, unsellable garments. Incineration is still carbon-intensive and risks undermining climate objectives unless paired with mitigation measures, it adds.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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EU Parliament, Council reach deal on major reform of Customs Code

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EU Parliament, Council reach deal on major reform of Customs Code



The European Parliament and European Council yesterday reached an agreement on a major reform of the European Union (EU) Customs Code to address problems relating to e-commerce, safety of goods and efficiency.

According to the informal agreement, there will be a new handling fee for each item entering the EU from non-EU countries and sent directly to EU consumers, to cover the extra cost of handling an ever-increasing number of individual parcels.

This will be paid by the same entity responsible for paying other customs charges for the same parcel, to avoid shifting the cost to consumers.

The European Parliament and European Council have reached a deal on a major reform of the EU Customs Code to address problems relating to e-commerce, safety of goods and efficiency.
A new handling fee will be charged for each item entering the EU from non-EU nations and sent directly to EU consumers.
The European Commission will establish the level of the fee and reassess it every two years.

The European Commission will establish the level of the fee and reassess it every two years. Member states will start collecting it as soon as the necessary information technology (IT) system becomes operational, and in any case no later than November 1, this year.

Under the new rules, sellers and platforms that facilitate distance sales of goods from non-EU countries directly to EU customers will be treated as importers. This will oblige them to provide customs authorities with all the necessary data, pay or guarantee any charges, and make sure that the goods comply with EU laws, an official release said.

These companies must be established in the EU or be represented by an EU-based entity having either authorised economic operator (AEO) or trusted trader status. This should prevent the use of shell companies.

To incentivise bulk shipments that are easier for customs authorities to check, non-EU country sellers and platforms are encouraged to operate warehouses in the EU. Their intra-EU client shipments would benefit from a lower handling fee, provided their goods were imported in collective packaging and large enough quantities to make customs checks more efficient.

Companies that repeatedly ignore EU rules could be punished with a fine of at least 1 per cent (and up to 6 per cent) of the total value of goods imported into the EU in the previous 12 months.

Additionally, customs authorities may suspend, revoke, or annul their trusted trader or AEO status and flag them as high-risk operators.

Import-export companies that follow the rules and agree to cooperate transparently with the customs authorities may benefit from a simplified ‘trust and check’ regime. This would initially require them to go through thorough vetting and grant customs authorities access to their electronic systems.

In exchange, their shipments would be checked less frequently and they would have more flexibility regarding the payment of duties and fees.

The current AEO qualification will remain in place to keep customs status accessible to smaller economic operators.

The reform also establishes a new customs data hub to be managed by the new EU Customs Authority (EUCA). It will be available for optional use by 2031 and mandatory by 2034.

The data hub will replace at least 111 software systems currently used by customs.

The provisional agreement needs to be officially approved by Parliament in plenary as well as by the EU Council, before it will become law.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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EU apparel imports slump 15.48% YoY in Jan; Bangladesh hardest hit

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EU apparel imports slump 15.48% YoY in Jan; Bangladesh hardest hit



The European Union’s (EU) apparel imports dropped by 15.48 per cent year on year (YoY) in January this year to €7.03 billion ($8.15 billion), according to data from Eurostat.

This was driven by an 8.36-per cent YoY decline in import volume and a 7.76-per cent YoY decrease in average unit prices.

The EU’s apparel imports fell by 15.48 per cent YoY in January to €7.03 billion, according to Eurostat.
Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the EU fell to €1.43 billion in January—a 25.25-per cent drop in value.
China remained the top exporter of apparel to the EU (€2.22 billion), but still saw a 6.9-per cent decline YoY in value.
India, Pakistan, Vietnam and Cambodia also remained in negative territory.

Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the bloc fell to €1.43 billion in January—a sharp 25.25-per cent drop in value. It saw a 17.49-per cent YoY decrease in the quantity of goods shipped, coupled with a 9.41 per cent drop in the unit price per kilogram.

China remained the top exporter of apparel to the EU (€2.22 billion), but still saw a 6.9-per cent decline YoY in value. Its unit prices dropped by 8.01 per cent YoY, while its export volume grew a bit by 1.21 per cent YoY.

Turkey faced a severe hit with a 29.12-per cent YoY decrease in apparel export value to the EU in the month, totaling €619.98 million.

Other countries like India, Pakistan, Vietnam and Cambodia remained in negative territory, reflecting a broad-based slowdown in the European fashion retail market.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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EU gains meet a harsh reality in India: War, rupee, energy shock

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EU gains meet a harsh reality in India: War, rupee, energy shock




India’s textile outlook is turning structurally complex.
The EU pact targets ~99.5 per cent trade coverage with phased duty relief, while rupee weakness supports exports.
However, crude volatility, >80 per cent import energy dependence, polyester cost inflation and US market softness (≈28 per cent share) are fragmenting performance, reinforcing a shift towards cotton-led, EU-focused exporters.



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