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Timberland and Telfar launch capsule collection

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Timberland and Telfar launch capsule collection


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October 4, 2025

Timberland and Telfar have teamed up to launch a capsule collection that reimagines the classic Yellow Boot while expanding into bags. 

Timberland and Telfar launch capsule collection. – Timberland x Telfar

At the center of the collection is the Timberland x Telfar Tall Pull-On Boot, a 26-inch unstructured style in pebbled nubuck leather, available in wheat and black. Completing the footwear selection is the Mid Pull-On Boot offering an 11-inch version, and the Slip-On Shoe, which reinterprets Timberland’s workwear DNA into a loafer meant to be worn across seasons and occasions.

True to Telfar’s signature, the collaboration also introduces bags. The Timberland x Telfar Shopper, available in three sizes in wheat and black, is crafted from thick nubuck leather with the Telfar logo burned into the front and rubber feet on the base inspired by Timberland’s iconic tread. Lastly, a new silhouette, the Slouchy Bag, mirrors the boots’ relaxed shape, featuring exterior shell pockets, a drawstring closure, and orange nylon interior.

Distribution will be split between the two brands: all wheat bags and all black boots and bags will be exclusive to Telfar, while Timberland will carry the wheat boot and loafer styles.

The collection is now available online, at Telfar’s New York flagship on Broadway, via Timberland stores, and select wholesale partners on October 8.

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Paris is torn between Elie Saab’s working girl and the whimsical creations of Japanese designers

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Paris is torn between Elie Saab’s working girl and the whimsical creations of Japanese designers


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October 5, 2025

Japan’s leading fashion houses once again made a major splash at Paris Fashion Week on Saturday, as evidenced on the sixth day of the women’s ready-to-wear shows for spring-summer 2026 by three of the country’s most emblematic labels: Junya Watanabe, Noir by designer Kei Ninomiya, and Comme des Garçons. On the same day, Elie Saab sent his army of power women down the catwalk.

Comme des Garçons, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

As so often, it was Rei Kawakubo‘s show for Comme des Garçons that moved us most and left the deepest impression. In today’s chaotic world, where catastrophes and human tragedies follow one after another, the designer seemed intent on returning to origins, reconnecting with the values of the Earth. Folk songs and traditional tunes accompanied the show.

A procession of amorphous, swollen silhouettes advanced, draped in great swathes of burlap, hemp or linen, hastily knotted, or in old lace sheets, curtains and bedspreads. Some jackets appeared to be cut directly from the large beige canvas sacks used to store potatoes and other produce from the land. A waistcoat and goat-hair coats completed this rustic look.

These sculptural garments, generated by the play of layering, volume and padding techniques, lent a sense of solemnity to the whole. Topped with battered top hats and cotton-wool hair in pastel shades, the models evoked rag dolls or cloth puppets—old crones or witches—burned in the countryside in January in antiquity to lay the past year to rest and celebrate a richer, more auspicious new season.

Junya Watanabe, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

This season, Junya Watanabe pushed the boundaries further in his experimental exploration of clothing, delivering a breathtaking collection in which constructions were constantly reinvented, with unexpected intrusions along the way. The Japanese designer folded, with complete ease, the ordinary elements of the textile universe and everyday life into his creations—objects and accessories that usually pass unnoticed.

The result was at once surreal and playful. Old white lace parasols unfurled like a corolla at the hem of a summer dress, while a flock of straw hats created a ruffled volume at the collar and across the shoulders of a long evening gown in nude-coloured guipure lace.

Bright red pumps adorned the shoulders of a black sheath. A cascade of metallic cutlery formed the sleeves of a crinkled silver nylon T-shirt. Rendered in gold, knives and forks compose intriguing sculptures on a shoulder or a flank. The emblematic coat hanger completed this kind of “prévert inventory”: trench coats, shirt dresses and polka-dot dresses were threaded onto it two or three at a time, then secured to either side of the body.

Noir Kei Ninomiya, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

At Noir, Kei Ninomiya continued to explore three-dimensional structures through a mathematical approach. By infinitely multiplying elements as modules—flowers, stars or metal cones, for example—he created fairytale, sculptural ensembles. The show opened with a series of white tulle petticoats paired with sparkling, silver, carapace-like tunics. 

The models’ faces were masked or hidden by bulky headdresses, reminiscent of aggregates of quartz crystals or other organic forms. In black and white, they also appeared in unexpected fluorescent hues (pink, orange, and yellow). Paradoxically, behind this whimsical appearance lies a rather classic, even retro wardrobe, composed of prim white blouses, black balloon or pleated skirts, and suits with gathered ruffles. Not forgetting platform moccasins set on a platform and fitted with a small stiletto heel.

These outfits were enhanced by harnesses or cage tunics slipped over the garments, to which all manner of spectacular structures were attached: a giant star covered in precious stones, a basket-dress-shaped grid formed by a Meccano-like chain, clouds of tulle, glittering garlands and other fabric petals. 

Elie Saab, spring-summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A change of register at Elie Saab. The mood evoked the electric air of the great metropolises. In the darkness, the sound of heels echoed on the pavement. Suddenly, silhouettes emerged in a fog bathed in a ruddy glow. The first model cut across the catwalk. The tone is set—a little like “Bright Lights, Big City”.

The look was that of the working girl: a chic, tailored suit; a pencil skirt with a back slit; a silk blouse with a plunging neckline; or little polka-dot tops. She’s as at ease in pleat-front trousers as in a strapless python-skin dress, and has never looked more elegant than simply wearing a flowing camel trench that slips over her skin, or a jacket and T-shirt with those sensual, floaty silk trousers with a denim effect.

Her favourite game? Mix & match. She happily pairs Prince of Wales check with polka dots, a leather skirt with a metallic-fringed tank top, a worn leather jacket with an openwork sequinned skirt. For evening, the Elie Saab woman pulls out all the stops with glittering draped maxi dresses or shorter dresses with long trains.

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A distinctly eclectic Paris Fashion Week featuring Leonard, Giambattista Valli, and Vetements

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A distinctly eclectic Paris Fashion Week featuring Leonard, Giambattista Valli, and Vetements


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October 4, 2025

Paris Fashion Week entered its fifth day with an especially intense programme. In particular, the womenswear ready-to-wear shows for Spring/Summer 2026 revealed designers’ pursuit of freshness and lightness. Leonard Paris and Giambattista Valli were prime examples. Vetements, for its part, opted for provocation.

Leonard Paris, Spring-Summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Leonard Paris jetted off to California, channelling Hollywood and Beverly Hills, for a festive summer that promises to be scorching. The wardrobe conceived by German designer Georg Lux leaned into evening and cocktail dressing, with fluid minidresses and long, diaphanous gowns cut from airy silks. The pieces floated, at times seeming suspended, rippling with each step in a whisper of intangible fabrics.

“I was inspired this season by muses such as Faye Dunaway and Jerry Hall, but also by the drawings of Puerto Rican fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez,” confided the creative director backstage, who welcomed guests to the elegant private mansion in the 16th arrondissement, where the house has been based since 2018. Clearly, his collection looked as much to the seventies jet set as to Hollywood’s golden age, with draped, diva-worthy, sequinned gowns.

More than ever, prints took centre stage, from Californian palms lifted from the house’s 1980s archives to the Art Deco floral theme developed by Leonard during the 1970s, along with a new red-and-orange poppy motif found on cotton-poplin dresses, but also painted onto a jacket and a transparent recycled-plastic bag, or worked into enamelled metal earrings. And flowers of every shape and in every shade ran through this richly varied collection.

Next summer’s wardrobe is all about volume, with draping, generous balloon sleeves, puffed silhouettes and flared dresses. A few “cricket club”-style striped looks and masculine blazers and suits provide contrast, though they remained thoroughly glamorous, crafted in greige twill embroidered with gold sequins and rhinestones.

Giambattista Valli, Spring-Summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Giambattista Valli welcomed guests into the salons of his house, a stone’s throw from the Opéra on Boulevard des Capucines. Baskets brimming with fruit and wildflowers lined the catwalk. The tone was set, as the Italian couturier celebrated nature in all its splendour, infusing his collection with an ingenuous candour.

With their colourful headscarves, blouses and ample petticoats or culottes, or their white lace apron dresses, the models evoked peasant women returning from the fields, or shepherdesses from old tales in search of Prince Charming. Some outfits were strewn with bucolic motifs: flowers, bouquets, fruit, clovers and butterflies.

Natural materials such as linen and cotton dominated, bringing a touch of authentic simplicity to the whole via little dresses, jackets and shorts suits decorated with hand-painted flowers in the manner of Dutch masters such as Vermeer, whose still lifes inspired Giambattista Valli this season.

Ruffles multiplied like petals in delicate dresses with billowing, airy volumes. They come in the colours of summer fruits: peach, raspberry, lemon, cherry, strawberry and plum. Lightness prevailed with shot taffeta and, above all, organza—whether embroidered cotton organza, ruched silk organza or crinkled iterations.

Vetements, Spring-Summer 2026 – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

After taking over a McDonald’s on the Champs-Elysées in June 2019, Vetements returned to show on the world’s most beautiful avenue, this time taking over a concrete basement formerly occupied by an Adidas store. In the dim light, a silhouette descended the stairs to cross what looked like a squalid garage, its ceiling interlaced with neon tubes. Face masked by a nylon stocking, the first model appeared in leather trousers and boots, wearing a white T-shirt with a swastika crossed out by a prohibition sign.

For its return to the catwalks after sitting out last season, the brand is looking to make an impact. But its message was, to say the least, muddled. After this opening manifesto look, what followed was a sexist show in which all the women who stepped onto the catwalk were systematically undressed at the back, while the men were not subjected to the same treatment—save for one model whose jeans turned into transparent plastic at the rear, revealing a very chaste pair of white boxer shorts.

Fashion has often explored front/back construction in clothing, but here the experimentation left observers unconvinced. Whether in slip dresses or a tight skirt with a T-shirt, a suit, a printed dress, a severe straight grey skirt, or even a candy-pink ballgown, seen from behind the women were reduced to mere sex bombs, buttocks and legs on full display, covered only in couture tights and sometimes tight shorts or thigh-high boots.

At the back, in fact, garments morphed into high-cut bodysuits, while long dresses were shortened and skirts were either merely tacked at the front without being properly worn, or systematically unbuttoned at the back. Even the classic tweed suit was subverted, the skirt replaced by a pair of tweed briefs—also, of course, high-cut. Elsewhere, trench coats and overcoats open at the back or are stripped of fabric, revealing the lining, as with certain jackets worn by the men.

Two looks, strapped with an enormous cushion—airbag-style—fixed to the front at pelvis level, prompted questions. At the end of the show, coup de théâtre. A final model, dressed in an elegant black crinoline gown entirely open at the back, crossed the catwalk in tears, seeming to buckle under the pain. What was the message here? That this was, in fact, a denunciation of women as objects and of their hypersexualised image? Of the excesses of social media?

By trying too hard to conceptualise, Guram Gvasalia, who took over as the brand’s creative director in 2021 (he succeeded his brother Demna, who left for Balenciaga and is now at the helm of Gucci), risks losing his way.

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Bangladesh Chittagong Port to enforce raised tariffs from Oct 15

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Bangladesh Chittagong Port to enforce raised tariffs from Oct 15



Bangladesh’s Chattogram Port Authority (CPA) will enforce its revised tariff schedule from October 15, a month later than announced initially.

The authority raised service charges by an average of 41 per cent in early September through a gazette notification. It was the first first comprehensive revision in nearly 40 years.

Following concerns raised by businesses, Bangladesh’s Chattogram Port Authority will enforce its revised tariff schedule from October 15, a month later than announced initially.
Under the new rates, importers will pay an additional Tk 5,720 per twenty-foot container, while exporters face a rise of Tk 3,045.
The single largest jump is in loading and unloading charges, up from $43.40 to $68 per container.

“To ensure smooth application, the board decided to set October 15 as the effective date. All necessary preparations have been completed,” CPA secretary Omar Faruk was quoted as saying by a domestic media outlet.

Under the new tariff rates, importers will pay an additional Tk 5,720 per twenty-foot container, while exporters face an increase of Tk 3,045. The single largest jump is in loading and unloading charges, up from $43.40 to $68 per container.

The move drew severe criticism from exporters and importers. CPA officials, however, claim that even after the revision, Chattogram’s charges are lower than those of many regional ports.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (DS)



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